June 20, 2013

Snap Judgment: Martha Davis Sugi Sandal

Our very-visual, (almost) chatter-free snap judgment of the day: the pleasantly minimalist, but seriously more-than-meets-the-eye Sugi sandal, $320, by Martha Davis and available at The Workshop Residence. Rotate the reclaimed wood heel and lock into place to transform this shoe’s heel height from two inches to three inches.

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A Clear Winner: Eric Rutberg TRANSPARENT Shoes

Let’s be clear, when it comes to shoes, you won’t find us sporting see-through heels (outside of our kinda dirty dreams). But that doesn’t mean we can’t get behind footwear with a focus on transparency, especially if it’s a wham-pow pair from the new TRANSPARENT collection of San Francisco designer Eric Rutberg that’s hitting stores with bold hues, high heels and pumped up platforms this spring.

Sculptural details and sunny day colors mix with wooden touches and layered lines in the new line by Rutberg, a longtime footwear industry player who has designed for LAMB, Badgley Mischka, Jennifer Lopez, Betsey Johnson and San Francisco’s own Wilkes Bashford, among others.

For spring, Rutberg drew inspiration from mid-century designers such as George Nakashima and George Nelson, as well as classic Lilly Pulitzer, for a look that’s full of fresh, preppy appeal, but still pretty damn sexy and stunning at the same time.

The collection ($185-$325) will be arriving in stores from Neiman Marcus to L.A.’s Fred Segal early next year. In the meantime, read on for our recent interview with Rutberg for his thoughts on color, getting inspired by that big ‘ole bridge we’ve got and why you should probably just give up hope of finding a super-high heel that’s also insanely comfortable.

Designer Eric Rutberg

Your shoes display a love of color. What do you think a colorful shoe brings to a woman’s overall look?

I think that color adds an element of surprise and sophistication. Black or camel, for instance, are conservative and safe choices. A woman who chooses color is my kind of customer: fearless, worldly, and more confident in her approach to the world and her impact in it.

How do you balance functionality and aesthetics when you design shoes? Are they of equal importance?

Comfort is an interesting thing. Our shoes are designed well, constructed of great leathers and hand-crafted components. With a long-time background in designing, I go to great lengths to incorporate a lot of of the prerequisites of comfort, but a 130 mm platform pump will never be a true orthopedic fit. It’s a compromise of fashion and function. I balance comfort with an edgy aesthetic. It required working both sides of your brain at once to achieve both simultaneously.

Your shoes display sculptural qualities while still remaining contemporary in their look and feel. Where do you draw your inspiration from?

Travel and study are great companions. I spend a huge amount of time looking at all the places I am lucky to be in, contemplating the design elements, the nature of those environments and the inhabitants evolving in them. I can’t think of anything more contemporary than a pyramid.

You have homes in SF and Sonoma. Does Northern California influence your aesthetic at all?

We have an orange suspension bridge right here in San Francisco that exemplifies primary colors and clean lines.

Are there any unique or notable materials or elements used to make your footwear line that you’d like to point out?

The name of our company includes the word TRANSPARENT. In the beginning, part of the reason for the name was that I wanted the company to be that for myself, people who work with us, and the women who like what we do. However, for many years in my career, lucite or transparency, even as it relates to absence, has always been a part of something in my work every season. This Spring, I have a wonderful strong shaped heel that is Lucite. The construction is very modern. And like our women: strong and fearless.

Photography courtesy of Eric Rutberg

More San Francisco shoes

Sneak Peek: Martha Davis Spring 2011

San Francisco-based footwear designer Martha Davis has released her spring 2011 collection. Along with women’s sandals and open-toed shoe booties, the latest offerings include one style for men.

[Read more...]

If the Shoe Fits: Anyi Lu

A comfortable fit enhanced with feminine flair is the hallmark of shoes by Anyi Lu, a Tiburon-based designer and former competitive ballroom dancer who was inspired to launch her line after witnessing her sister’s struggles to find an attractive, yet dance-friendly footwear solution for her wedding reception. [Read more...]

Local Designer’s Shoes Shine at Fashion Week

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Lest you think San Francisco designers were absent from the runways of Bryant Park last month, think again. Martha Davis Shoes were the sole (pun intended) ped-protectors chosen to accompany the Koi Suwannagate fall 2010 ready-to-wear collection. Black leather ankle booties, strappy heels and open-toed platform wedges by Davis complimented Suwannagate’s polished, yet easy-going collection with their subdued, sophisticated appeal.

Of the chance to show off her latest alongside a designer’s work she admires, Davis had this to say:

“Each of our collections has a distinct individuality that supported the other’s without cluttering or overpowering. Koi Suwannagate is a huge talent – it was an honor to collaborate with her.”

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