May 21, 2012

Mind Behind the Design: Metal Smith’s Isabella Behravan


We’ve always been told that diamonds are a girl’s best friend. San Francisco-based designer Isabella Behravan is challenging this long-held belief with her innovative use of metals in her new jewelry line, Metal Smith. Give her a little time, and she may even disprove that whole diamond theory altogether.

After peeping her pieces during a recent visit to Ver Unica boutique in Hayes Valley, we were immediately intrigued and had to know more about this new local designer and her marvelous metals. Behravan is a born and bred San Franciscan raised in the heart of Russian Hill, and, like any seasoned city gal, she knows these city streets like the back of her hand.

After high school Behravan escaped to Upstate New York for a change of climate and scenery where she attended Bard College. But four years later, she soon found the City by the Bay calling her name.

Manager at Ver Unica for three years and counting, Behravan is in the midst of launching Metal Smith’s debut collection. It may be her first line, but she’s been at the jewelry designing game for quite some time. Behravan initially began creating pieces for herself after not finding jewelry she wanted to wear. Determined to sport pieces she was proud to call her own, Behravan immediately went to work.
Drawing inspiration from her surroundings, the elements, architecture and her love for the craftsmanship and impeccable detail in vintage clothing, Behravan carefully handcrafts each and every Metal Smith design. Her first collection boasts an array of earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets with clean lines, subtle colors and bold shapes.
We sat down with Behravan to get the skinny on Metal Smith, dish about life in San Francisco and, of course, talk fashion.

What inspired you to start your own jewelry line?

I began making pieces that I wanted to wear because I wasn’t finding jewelry that felt natural and right for me out in the world. So I created pieces that I would want to wear everyday, not to go with an outfit but to make me feel a certain way. I quickly realized I wanted to share the jewelry I was creating.

What types of designs are you drawn to when creating your pieces?

I look to architecture, vintage pieces from my personal collection, and nature for inspiration. Shadows and empty space often play a big role in my design process.

What materials are your favorite to work with?

I love working with all types of metal. I love to see it do unexpected things and transform into something new. I’ve never worked with anything quite like it before; it’s amazing to create jewelry from something so strong with your hands.

When you’re not designing jewelry, what else do you do?

I hangout with my dog, Dirt. I also love going to thrift stores and antique shops to seek out hidden treasures.

What are your favorite shops or destinations in SF? Where are your go-to places to find independent, local apparel and jewelry designers?

My perfect day in San Francisco would start at Sight Glass Coffee, because it is such a beautiful place, where – if I could have a work bench in their loft – I could honestly work for hours upon hours a day. Then I’d take the N Judah to General Store, which has a beautifully curated collection of things. I’d finish the day with a walk with Dirt down to Union Made to check out their beautiful textiles. It is rare to see a shop with such perfectly selected pieces, particularly in men’s.

What is the one accessory you cannot live without?

My sunglasses. They’re circular frame 1960’s Christian Dior. I think that whoever owned them before me changed one of the lenses because they’re two different colors. One lens is a little more rosy and the other is a little more yellowy. When I wear them, anything that’s red looks totally psychedelic!

What is next for Metal Smith?

Metalsmith.com! And I am very excited about stones right now. I have some pieces in mind that will involve new colored and textured stones that will complement the metal work I’ve been designing.

To check out Metal Smith’s first collection stop by Ver Unica boutique for the Metal Smith Trunk Show this Friday, October 14th from 6-9pm.

Photography courtesy of Metal Smith

More San Francisco jewelry designers….

Party Seen: 3rd Annual Styling the Modern Man

DJ Duser Rock on the ones and twos

The crowd gathered at the Bently Reserve for last week’s 3rd Annual Styling the Modern Man was dressed to kill for a 1960′s-themed night billed as a celebration and investigation of what it means to be a modern man. An array of tools and demonstrations on grooming, entertaining, décor and personal style greeted guests, who came for a first look at the latest in the men’s luxury market.

Guests at Styling the Modern Man

Produced by Graffiti PR and its Co-founder Shaun Sanders, Styling the Modern Man launched three years ago and was first held at The W Hotel in San Diego, but has since become an annual San Francisco event. This year it was all about the early 60′s, a moment that has taken both the fashion industry and consumers by storm, largely thanks to AMC’s Mad Men. Think pocket squares, fedoras, loafers and whiskey.

A number of local brands and business owners participated in the event, among them Doug Dalton, owner of such well-known San Francisco bars as Bourbon and Branch and Rickhouse, as well as the spirits shop Cask.

“At Future Bars, we provide small batch spirits that are artisanal and geared towards those who appreciate quality products, such as the individuals who participated in this event. Also, as a local, small business owner, I am very dedicated to supporting and promoting other local businesses, which was one of the primary aims of this event,” Dalton told us.

Guests mill inside the Bently Reserve

Handmade shirts from local designers Taylor Stitch

This year the event was set up as a series of small shops divided by plush velvet curtains lining the walls of the ballroom, where party-goers milled about, chatted and sipped Encanto pisco and Cyrus Noble bourbon whiskey. DJ Duser Rock kept the beats pumping as attendees ventured from shop to shop to get styled by the fashionable founders of Taylor Stitch, pampered by the guys at Attention to Detail Barber Gallery and prepped in how to correctly tie a necktie by Joy Nordenstrom of Joy of Romance, Inc.

An attendee learns necktie techniques

At the far end of the massive ballroom, a VIP room treated guests to extra perks in the form of beats by DJ Richard Habib, sample tastings of red, white, and bubbly from Rockwell Wine Co., oyster shucking with the pros at Hog Island Oyster Co. and tequila flavored ice cream from Los Osuna.

Just after 9 p.m., the crowd cleared the way for a special fashion show titled “Geek-Is-Chic.” Sponsored by Levi’s, the show featured looks by Academy of Art University student designer Fayrouz Abiassi and local figures from the tech community working it on the runway.

Shoe shines

Want more men’s style? Stay tuned for next year’s Styling the Modern Man and, in the meantime, check out our coverage of San Francisco men’s fashion.

Photography courtesy of Chi Chin Photography

San Francisco Style: Fall Fashion’s School Girl Chic

Whether or not you’re headed back to school, fresh takes on studious style go perfectly with fall fashion. Get an Ivy League-inspired look with a preppy plaid wrap skirt, dark brown oxford heels by a San Francisco shoe company and a leather and canvas tote from local label Joshu+Vela.

Vintage Wool Tartan Plaid Wrap Skirt by Elas Vintage Finds

Vintage 60′s Red Shift Suit by Cake Shop Vintage

Dark Oak Waxed Tote by Joshu+Vela

Burgundy Leather Wrap Watch at Azalea Boutique

Lace-Up Oxford Booties by Paulo Shoes

More San Francisco style

Photography courtesy of individual retailers

Behind the Shop: Wonderland SF

Irene Hernandez-Feiks, Wonderland SF

Situated in the heart of the Mission lies a wonderland brimming with items sure to render art collectors and fashion mavens alike giddy with excitement. That this half gallery, half boutique just so happens to be called Wonderland SF is altogether fitting – because that’s exactly what you’ll find inside.

Opening its doors to the Bay Area just over a year ago, this multifunctional space is owned and operated by Irene Hernandez-Feiks, who’s also a designer, art curator and DJ with a career in the Bay Area fashion and art industry that stretches back just over thirteen years. Now that her longtime dream of opening a gallery and boutique has become a reality, Hernandez-Feiks shows no signs of resting on her laurels. In recent weeks, she just started working on a new and as-yet-unnamed jewelry line and also has a clothing and t-shirt line in the works.

A well-known personality on the local fashion scene since the launch of Chillin’ events at 111 Minna through her production company Chillin’ Productions, Hernandez-Feiks is known for seeking out new talents and offering them a platform to showcase their work.

We caught up with Hernandez-Feiks recently to chat about her new jewelry line, independent fashion in San Francisco, and what is to come for Wonderland SF.

Pieces from Hernandez-Feiks' new, yet-to-be-named jewelry line

More pieces from the new line

How did you break into fashion and art industry ? 

I started my career 13 years ago at 111 Minna Gallery. I started doing Chillin’ events every Tuesday for happy hour. I would show different art and artists every week. I never took any commission from art sales or charged the designers to vend at the events. My dream was to create exposure and opportunity for local artists and designers, and in doing so to find a way to make money for these artists and designers. Chillin’ was the first sample sale in SF, and it was always free.  Also, as a designer myself, I didn’t feel there was a platform for local designers and artists. I didn’t think they had the personality to promote themselves and their work, so I wanted to create an environment where they were able to do so and be recognized for their talent.

Why do you feel so passionate about supporting independent and local fashion, designers, and art in the Bay Area?

I love what Bay Area artists and designers are doing. I think they are so innovative; they push the envelope and don’t copy things that are already made. I think it is important to support our local economy. We are so concerned about the environment, why not start local? I could go on about all the amazing and talented people that live here in the Bay Area. I’m so honored to work with so many of them. I just want to help support them, help them make money and get the exposure they deserve. Local artists and designers care so much and are truly passionate.

What was your inspiration for opening Wonderland SF?

I curated an art show at 111 Minna gallery. Minna is my favorite place! I showed my favorite artists and the show had an amazing response which made me believe I can open my own place. I have relationships with a lot of Bay Area artists and designers and people in the fashion community. I felt it was important to have a place you can come and support local art and fashion, and this is exactly what you can do at Wonderland SF. We carry over 300 local designers, and we have new art exhibit every month.

What was it like to get Wonderland SF, a project you have been dreaming of for so long, off the ground?

I used all of my savings to open this place. I had no investors, and we did everything with very little money. Talk about a labor of love. Because of that it is a reflection of who I am, so you see a lot of our personal touches since we had to do our best with what we had. I think that the artists and designers who I collaborate with know how much I love what I do, and my customers see it when they are here. I couldn’t be more pleased with what we have created.

How would you describe your store’s style? 

I honestly feel there is something for everyone. I’ve been in the industry for over 13 years supporting local artists and designers, and I work with over 5,000 Bay area artists and designers. I have 200 jewelry collections alone at Wonderland SF.  The store has tons of t-shirts for men and women. We have all sorts of jewelry, ranging from edgy to classic, and big to little, you name it. We also have dresses, jackets, and bags in a variety of styles. We have a little bit of everything. If we don’t have it, we will get for you. I do not think anyone has as much variety as we have.

What new and exciting things are you working on at Wonderland?

Well, I just started my own jewelry line, which I’m still trying to figure out a name for, one that best represents me and my work. I am also working on a t-shirt and clothing line, made locally of course, and it’s really affordable. Also, one of the best things about having the gallery in the store is that I am able to work with new designers and artists every week. So many talented people want to come in here and show their art, and I am happy to have a home for them to do so.

About your jewelry line, can you tell me a little bit about it?  

Well, I’ve been working on this particular line for about five months, but I’ve been designing for about 13 years, which started at the Chillin’ events. I’d describe the line as bold and edgy. It’s gaudy but not overdone, and it’s more modern. I started to see more and more people using the electro gold, and I just loved it! So, I found out where to get it and started to experiment with it. I was truly inspired by the crystals with the crown of silver dipped in gold, so I wanted to work that into my collection. As for the chains, earring and coins, they are my own ideas, my creations. Basically, I get to create and design which is what I love, it’s really exciting.

So, you have a new jewelry line you are working on and a clothing and t-shirt line coming soon. How do you manage life as a gallery/boutique owner, designer, curator, DJ, wife and mom?

I am so tired! I work every day at the store. I work on other projects through Chillin’ Productions and also must make sure my family gets the attention and love they need. I am exhausted, but I love what I do and I’m slightly obsessive compulsive, so I feel that no one else is going to care more than I do and work as hard at it as I do. At the end of the day I love my family, my store, Chillin’ Productions, DJ’ing, and l’m grateful that I am able to do what I love.

Lastly, Wonderland SF has been open for a little over a year now. How has it changed and what have you learned?

I’ve have learned a lot! Initially I was more close-minded about the aesthetic I wanted to present. Then I realized that if I wanted the business to survive, I had to be more open-minded to what people wanted, offer more variety in the inventory, mix it up, get to know my clientele and the neighborhood, and merchandising! Merchandising is so important! It’s all about being creative. I’m really happy with what Wonderland SF has become.

Wonderland stocks apparel and accessories from belt buckles to heels and handbags -- all by local designers

In back, an art gallery features new work from local talent

Stop by Wonderland this month to view the Majesty exhibit curated by Amandalynn.  2929 24th St @ Alabama.

Photography courtesy of Rachel Kemp

More independent fashion

Runway Recap: SF Fashion Week Runway 3 – Couture/Avant Garde Show

A studded dress by Ken Chen and guitar case by Vayaro

This year’s San Francisco Fashion Week went out with a bang last Sunday night at its third runway show of the week, which focused on couture and avant garde designs. Held at Madrone Studios in the SOMA, the show featured local designers Vio Gemini, Ken Chen, Aya Yuroha and Diane Oo, Jackie Princeau, Homme by Dahae Elyse Kimm and Camelia Skikos.

Vio Gemini opened the show with decadent bridal gowns equipped with feathers, Victorian collars and decorative pleating. While most of the gowns were floor length, there were a few pieces with hemlines above the knees. These shorter dresses added a flirty, laid back flair to the classic bridal look.

Next up, contemporary designer Ken Chen paired with handbag label Vayaro for their collection in the show. The two brands blended together seamlessly as Vayaro’s bags added kicks of color to Chen’s mostly neutral, minimal designs.

Jackie Princeau’s array of shift dresses, tailored pants and clean cut tops channeled a classic Parisian chic vibe. Putting a spin on the simple style, the brand topped multiple looks with leather body pieces that added futuristic flair.

Homme by Dahae Elyse Kimm managed to effortlessly combine draping, sleek cuts and modern dye techniques into one fluid men’s collection. The most notable piece was an asymmetrical, dip-dyed jacket that immediately captivated the audience with its modern cut and high contrast.

Closing out the show was former Gap and Levi Strauss designer Camelia Skikos. Her designs, which featured vibrant pops of cobalt blue, showed the most adventurous use of color out of all the designers. Similar to Jackie Princeau’s body pieces, Skikos also used playful shoulder accessories, which added a fashionable spin to streamlined silhouettes.

Below, a few images from the show, produced by the San Francisco Fashion and Merchants Alliance:

A gown from Vio Gemini

An intricate jacket with wire detailing by Aya Yuroha and Diane Oo

A leather body piece by Jackie Princeau

A dip-dyed jacket by Homme by Dahae Elyse Kimm

A modern white cloak by Camelia Skikos

A simple tube dress with shoulder piece by Camelia Skikos

Photography courtesy Shaun Tiangsing