May 25, 2012

Behind the Scenes at Acrimony’s Gitman Bros Shirting Event

Followers of Pennsylvania-based cult favorite Gitman Bros were on hand this past weekend to experience the label’s first San Francisco custom shirt event at Hayes Valley boutique Acrimony. Known for its idiosyncratic, quirky and off-beat array of colorful prints, flannels and plaids, Gitman Bros has become the boutique’s best selling shirt brand, so it should come as no surprise that Acrimony owner Jenny Chung specifically sought out the brand for a one-of-a-kind event for San Francisco shoppers.

Gitman Vice President Chris Olberding introduced the brand’s “Vintage” collection two and a half years ago. For Saturday’s event Olberding brought his Autumn/Winter 2010 swatch book of fabrics, about one-fifth of which originated from Gitman’s Autumn/Winter 1984 collection archives, for customers to create and order made-to-measure shirts on the spot.

“We had an overwhelming response for doing something like this, so that’s why I called upon [Olberding] to do it,” says Chung, who has carried the line in her store for the last four seasons. In addition to a custom shirt, a matching tie could be thrown in — there was even a whiskey tasting to add to the experience. Ladies were not left out, either — shirts could be custom ordered for Gitman Sisters, their line for women, as well.

Gitman's Chris Olberding showing his swatch book

Gitman Bros Vintage swatch selections

With such a well received event comes the question, is there a new demand for custom shirting today? While both Olberding and Chung are in agreement that custom shirting may not be a large volume builder for business, there is a place for its use in developing a brand.

“I do have customers around the world who have fabric on hand and a customer who’ll come in and they’ll have their measurements file,” Olberding says, “It’s an old way of making things, and if you go into a classic men’s store or haberdashery, a lot of things are custom, and guys will come in and they get all their clothing measured. And that’s how clothing originated.”

The event and its focus on custom apparel is a perfect fit for a town like San Francisco, where standing out and maintaining individuality are large parts of personal style.

“This brand warrants people wanting something unique,” Chung says, “and because people want to buy a size small in every color, it’s like, why not come in and also get a custom shirt in a fabric that you have never seen on anybody else before, and have it in four to six weeks for the same price? And that’s really what the draw is.”

Gitman Bros Vintage is characteristic of the hard-to-find, unusual brands prides herself on offering local shoppers.

“We don’t carry a whole lot of brands in the store,” Chung says, “but the brands that we do carry are unique to us, so – Wings and Horns, Nom de Guerre – you can’t find those anywhere else [in San Francisco], and that’s the point. Gitman Bros Vintage, the same way.”

Chung hopes offering in-store experiences like last weekend’s event will add to San Francisco’s overall fashion scene.

“Doing something like a custom shirting event, where you feel like you have ownership over a piece — over something that you really like — I think that’s pushing people in the right direction,” she says.

For more upcoming Acrimony events and happenings, look for store updates on the shop’s blog.  Gitman Bros Vintage fans can look forward to the company’s next visit to San Francisco at Unionmade Goods this spring.

Top photo courtesy of Acrimony, remaining images courtesy of Kizza Chadiha

Looking Fine: Taylor Stitch Ready-to-Wear Shirts

One thing we always appreciate: a well-dressed man. Finding proper toppers for the men in your life is now a little easier, thanks to new ready-to-wear men’s shirts from San Francisco-based Taylor Stitch.

Best known for its custom men’s dress shirts, the local company recently released a collection ($150-$175) of seven new shirts in both solids and prints. All shirts are handmade in San Francisco using single needle tailoring, French interlinings, Corozo buttons and Japanese milled cotton.

Looking for a custom shirt tailored to your specs? Set up an appointment, and one of the company’s three founders will visit you in person to take your measurements and design your shirt on the spot.

In the meantime, you can amuse yourself with images culled from the label’s latest lookbook, featuring easy-on-the-eyes guys from Scribe Winery, Four Barrel Coffee, Dwell magazine and – of course – Taylor Stitch itself.


Photography courtesy of Neil Berrett for Taylor Stitch. Photo credits: (top photo) Adam Mariani, Co-Owner, Scribe Winery; (middle photo) Kyle Blue, Design Director, Dwell Magazine; Mike Armenta & Mike Maher, Taylor Stitch; Aaron Britt, Editor, Dwell Magazine; (bottom image) Jeremy Tooker, Owner, Four Barrel Coffee.

More San Francisco men’s fashion

Video: Get the Right Fit at Eel and Ermine

Walk into into Eel and Ermine in Presidio Heights, and, unlike most boutiques, you’ll see the owners in action designing their own pieces from streamlined dresses with vintage fabric to boyfriend shirts with feminine touches amid earth-toned decor and furnishings and accessories they, for the most part, handcrafted themselves.

Owners Evelyne Aikman and Elinor Diamond both graduated with art degrees from separate schools and wondered, “Why don’t people make things anymore?” They answered their own question by opening their innovative, yet old-fashioned take on a clothing store, where they create simple and elegant designs and tailor them around their customer’s needs and desires.

“Being able to produce instead of consume all of the time…lets people see that ‘yes, you can make something, we’re making it right here.’ [It’s] kind of a nice way of getting things done and having things that you don’t necessarily have to buy from a huge chain store,” emphasizes Diamond, a San Francisco Art Institute alum.

Aikman and Diamond met each other decorating cakes at a shop in the city and later teamed up to find something more fulfilling. Together, they combined their E-lettered names and opened Eel and Ermine, a place where you can have well-tailored clothes at an affordable price while nibbling on homemade cakes and refreshments (their carrot cake is decadent).

On the racks, you can find well-designed dresses priced at an average of $100, fun skirts at around $60 and recycled t-shirts at a mere $25. Prices include free tailoring.

Aikman sums up why you should come get dressed at the shop: “You can get exactly what you want and something that fits you perfectly. It’s something you don’t have to order months in advance if you want a custom dress.”

Find your right fit at Eel and Ermine, 514 Presidio (between California and Pine) or online in their Etsy shop.

More custom garment designers