San Francisco Independent Fashion
The Prairie Schooner cocktail ring from Drella Jones
Our very-visual, (almost) chatter-free snap judgment of the day: The brass Covered Wagon Cocktail Ring, $11, perfect for the cowgirl or Oregon Trail fanatic in all of us. Inexpensive and fun, this Western-inspired piece is just one of many kitschy-cool items available from the etsy shop of San Francisco-based Drella Jones.
More San Francisco style…
DEMA, 1038 Valencia St, San Francisco
In the heart of the Mission on Valencia Street between 21st and 22nd is a boutique called DEMA, which for nearly fourteen years has been keeping stylish Bay Area ladies gussied-up in modern women’s clothing with a vintage vibe.
Dema Grim, owner and namesake, designs and crafts her own clothing which she sells in the shop and can oftentimes be found in her workshop in the back of DEMA, where she creates patterns and cuts fabric. In addition to showcasing her own creations, Dema seeks out other designers with a unique voice that fit well with the atmosphere of the shop. Among them are clothing lines Vkoo, Cardigan, Subtle Luxury and Red 23.
Walking inside DEMA is like stepping out of a time machine into a very hip, punky-mod alternate dimension, with vintage posters, kitschy-cool furniture and racks and racks of colorful and boldly-patterned skirts, dresses, blouses and accessories. Plastic BearBricks stand on a shelf near the dressing room area dressed with Sex Pistols cover art (“They can be customized with whatever, Dema tells us, “I’ve seen Fendi ones…”) while neat stacks of folded sweaters lay atop a crescent-shaped table.
Tops by Cardigan in a plethora of patterns.
Avocado tiled floor and mod touches create a retro-feeling shopping experience.
Dema, busy in her workshop.
Sam + Lavi blouse, DEMA Lesley Skirt, and Tokyo Bay cross-body bag, photo borrowed from the DEMA web site.
We got a chance to interview Dema via email while she was getting some R&R up in the Russian River Valley. Read on for her thoughts about getting started in the biz, where she gets her inspirations and what looks she’s loving for fall.
Are you originally from the Bay Area? Do you believe your environment influences your style?
I was raised in Seattle, where I started my clothing line; moved to NYC in 1989 and enjoyed some success- selling to lots of small influential boutiques around the country as well as Barneys; moved to SF in 1994 with a lot of these shops, including Barneys, owing me a LOT of money and decided to open my own shop and stop doing wholesale in 1997. The one exception to this is M.A.C., with whom I’ve been collaborating for almost 20 years!
I believe that environment absolutely influences my style. In New York, I made much dressier, more tailored things. Suits, lots of black,etc. Being in San Francisco, and the Mission district in particular, has relaxed my style and made it more colorful. I really think that in the last 5 or 6 years I have found my voice, as it were, in regards to mixing color and pattern.
How did you get started in the fashion industry?
I did not go to a fashion school, rather I cobbled an education together by working in theater doing costumes, at alterations shops where I learned about fit and from a woman who taught pattern making in her living room. I did take a sewing class and a basic draping class at Seattle City College. I just bought the textbooks and taught myself!
Where do you look for inspiration?
I’m very inspired by the 60s and rock and roll. I was quite the mod punk in my teen years! The 60s was a time of new freedoms from restriction for young women. The mini skirts and racing around on scooters etc! But also, on a practical level, the fabrics I find really push me in a particular direction. I think my line reflects a modern interpretation of vintage classics done in unexpected patterns or textures.
Who is your typical client? If you could dress any person, celebrity or not, living or dead, who would it be?
My typical client is me! 35-45, wanting to still look cool and relevant but also age appropriate.
I have a real soft spot for Jean Seberg. She was so perfectly gamine. My perfect blend of tomboy and girly. I live in skinny jeans and Keds and had just the same short haircut for a lot of my life and have always admired the girls who race around town on their scooters. I may stray into other eras, but I always come back to this sort of girl in my head.
What is your favorite trend for Fall?
Having said that, my favorite Fall trend is turning out to be the midi-skirt. I’ve done a great below the knee 4-gored skirt with a sort of 40′s flip to it. Very flattering to lots of figures and a very fresh length! This is turning out to be a very popular skirt for Fall. I’ve also done a very classic late 50′s dress with a little cap sleeve, pleated neckline and fitted skirt that looks great on almost everyone and works well in many different fabrics from daytime wools to silky evening prints.
Where do you like to shop in the city?
I don’t shop for clothes too much around town. I have a hard time buying anything I could make! But shoes and sweaters are definitely allowed: Gimme Shoes, Rabat, Bulo, Shoe Biz, etc.
DEMA has been in the Mission for nearly 14 years — what kind of changes have you noticed? Has the clientele and store changed in that time?
Boy have I seen a lot of changes in the neighborhood. I opened in 1997, and there was very little on Valencia besides used clothing and furniture shops. Then came the DotCom years, and I was very successful…When the bubble burst it was quite an eye-opener. Then things stabilized for a bit, and then this current recession started three years ago! I’ve seen so many shops come and go. I worked very hard to keep American Apparel off of Valencia even though we had so many empty storefronts. I just knew it would change the “indie” attitude of the neighborhood. And now almost every storefront is filled with interesting retail concept shops or great restaurants. For a while there were tons of indie clothing design places as well, although we lost a few to the recession. I would love for this neighborhood to be known as the place to come for small production clothing shops.
What are your goals for the future of DEMA?
I imagine DEMA to remain a fairly small enterprise. I’m pretty happy with my little design incubator and with the collaborations with MAC (Modern Appealing Clothing). I’m certainly busy enough! I would love to get something going besides my blog so my fans across the country could buy DEMA online.
If you didn’t have to work, where would you be right now?
When I’m not working, you’ll find me either poking around Europe or in my garden wrangling the roses or walking my three dogs around Bernal Heights!
Sex Pistols BearBricks give an edgy sense of fun.
Fabrics waiting to be turned into DEMA's next creations
Faux leather handbags by co-lab on display.
Kitschy-cool is the vibe of DEMA.
Cute decorations inside Dema's workshop
DEMA is celebrating its 14th year on Valencia, so don’t forget to stop in and say “Happy Birthday!”
Photography courtesy of Alexandra Naughton
More indie-friendly San Francisco shops…
The runway at Pretty Pretty Collective
Last Thursday style-crazed bloggers and fashionistas flocked to Pretty Pretty Collective Salon and Art Gallery for the much-talked-about debut of the new look book from Mission boutique Mira Mira. Together with PPC’s Georgia Rew, Mira Mira’s Mira Pickett threw a killer runway party featuring local style bloggers as models to celebrate her shop’s latest looks for fall.
Mira Pickett (left) and Georgia Rew
The dynamic duo, who have created quite the buzz on 22nd Street of late, worked with the rest of the PPC Productions crew to transform the venue into a style-heavy space complete with luminous light installations by Aleksandra Zee and a runway flanked by two rows of numbered seats, each with festive gift bag stuffed with goodies.
Guests Amber of Amber's Notebook, Natalie of Like Fresh laundry, media gal Joanna Reidl, Kristen of Stylenik, and Katie of Refinery29 strike a pose for the camera
As guests awaited the lookbook presentation, they ventured to the bar in back of the room for a silver bowl brimming with champagne cocktails and a spread of Sea Bells mini cupcakes. After quenching their thirst, snapping photos and catching up with friends, guests took their seats as the models in an upstairs dressing room dealt slipped into their first runway look.
A model wearing the first lookbook look.
The fashion show featured 15 looks ranging from feminine to romantic, bold, bohemian and vintage-inspired. Designs by To Be Adored, Annabelle, Mink Pink, Clover Canyon, Audrey 3+1 and Shakuhachi made their way down the runway modeled by a few of San Francisco’s favorite style bloggers: Blair of Atlantic Pacific, Jennie of Going West, Laura of On the Racks.
Laura of On the Racks strikes a pose at the end of the runway
Jennie of Going West works a killer red coat on the runway
Blair of Atlantic Pacific wears a romantic blouse by to be adored
After the runway show wrapped, the models slipped out of their runway looks to join the party. We grabbed the host herself for a quick Q&A.
When asked what kind of woman shops at Mira Mira, Pickett said, ” Women who love fashion and like to have fun with it and take risks.”
What sets her store apart from the rest? Mira says, “I try to carry unique styles that aren’t available all over SF at affordable price-points.”
Not only does the Mira Mira girl love fashion, but she loves a girls night, which Mira holds once a month at her the boutique.
Blair and Jennie post-show.
Laura post-show
A glowing Mira
As the party began to wind down and it was time to close up shop, the crowd switched it up and scooted next door to the Latin America Club to continue the celebration with pinatas and a few rounds of round of ice-cold brews.
More on the San Francisco style scene...
Photography courtesy of SF Indie Fashion (1, 3, 8, 9, 10) and Mira Mira
Irene Hernandez-Feiks, Wonderland SF
Situated in the heart of the Mission lies a wonderland brimming with items sure to render art collectors and fashion mavens alike giddy with excitement. That this half gallery, half boutique just so happens to be called Wonderland SF is altogether fitting – because that’s exactly what you’ll find inside.
Opening its doors to the Bay Area just over a year ago, this multifunctional space is owned and operated by Irene Hernandez-Feiks, who’s also a designer, art curator and DJ with a career in the Bay Area fashion and art industry that stretches back just over thirteen years. Now that her longtime dream of opening a gallery and boutique has become a reality, Hernandez-Feiks shows no signs of resting on her laurels. In recent weeks, she just started working on a new and as-yet-unnamed jewelry line and also has a clothing and t-shirt line in the works.
A well-known personality on the local fashion scene since the launch of Chillin’ events at 111 Minna through her production company Chillin’ Productions, Hernandez-Feiks is known for seeking out new talents and offering them a platform to showcase their work.
We caught up with Hernandez-Feiks recently to chat about her new jewelry line, independent fashion in San Francisco, and what is to come for Wonderland SF.
Pieces from Hernandez-Feiks' new, yet-to-be-named jewelry line
More pieces from the new line
How did you break into fashion and art industry ?
I started my career 13 years ago at 111 Minna Gallery. I started doing Chillin’ events every Tuesday for happy hour. I would show different art and artists every week. I never took any commission from art sales or charged the designers to vend at the events. My dream was to create exposure and opportunity for local artists and designers, and in doing so to find a way to make money for these artists and designers. Chillin’ was the first sample sale in SF, and it was always free. Also, as a designer myself, I didn’t feel there was a platform for local designers and artists. I didn’t think they had the personality to promote themselves and their work, so I wanted to create an environment where they were able to do so and be recognized for their talent.
Why do you feel so passionate about supporting independent and local fashion, designers, and art in the Bay Area?
I love what Bay Area artists and designers are doing. I think they are so innovative; they push the envelope and don’t copy things that are already made. I think it is important to support our local economy. We are so concerned about the environment, why not start local? I could go on about all the amazing and talented people that live here in the Bay Area. I’m so honored to work with so many of them. I just want to help support them, help them make money and get the exposure they deserve. Local artists and designers care so much and are truly passionate.
What was your inspiration for opening Wonderland SF?
I curated an art show at 111 Minna gallery. Minna is my favorite place! I showed my favorite artists and the show had an amazing response which made me believe I can open my own place. I have relationships with a lot of Bay Area artists and designers and people in the fashion community. I felt it was important to have a place you can come and support local art and fashion, and this is exactly what you can do at Wonderland SF. We carry over 300 local designers, and we have new art exhibit every month.
What was it like to get Wonderland SF, a project you have been dreaming of for so long, off the ground?
I used all of my savings to open this place. I had no investors, and we did everything with very little money. Talk about a labor of love. Because of that it is a reflection of who I am, so you see a lot of our personal touches since we had to do our best with what we had. I think that the artists and designers who I collaborate with know how much I love what I do, and my customers see it when they are here. I couldn’t be more pleased with what we have created.
How would you describe your store’s style?
I honestly feel there is something for everyone. I’ve been in the industry for over 13 years supporting local artists and designers, and I work with over 5,000 Bay area artists and designers. I have 200 jewelry collections alone at Wonderland SF. The store has tons of t-shirts for men and women. We have all sorts of jewelry, ranging from edgy to classic, and big to little, you name it. We also have dresses, jackets, and bags in a variety of styles. We have a little bit of everything. If we don’t have it, we will get for you. I do not think anyone has as much variety as we have.
What new and exciting things are you working on at Wonderland?
Well, I just started my own jewelry line, which I’m still trying to figure out a name for, one that best represents me and my work. I am also working on a t-shirt and clothing line, made locally of course, and it’s really affordable. Also, one of the best things about having the gallery in the store is that I am able to work with new designers and artists every week. So many talented people want to come in here and show their art, and I am happy to have a home for them to do so.
About your jewelry line, can you tell me a little bit about it?
Well, I’ve been working on this particular line for about five months, but I’ve been designing for about 13 years, which started at the Chillin’ events. I’d describe the line as bold and edgy. It’s gaudy but not overdone, and it’s more modern. I started to see more and more people using the electro gold, and I just loved it! So, I found out where to get it and started to experiment with it. I was truly inspired by the crystals with the crown of silver dipped in gold, so I wanted to work that into my collection. As for the chains, earring and coins, they are my own ideas, my creations. Basically, I get to create and design which is what I love, it’s really exciting.
So, you have a new jewelry line you are working on and a clothing and t-shirt line coming soon. How do you manage life as a gallery/boutique owner, designer, curator, DJ, wife and mom?
I am so tired! I work every day at the store. I work on other projects through Chillin’ Productions and also must make sure my family gets the attention and love they need. I am exhausted, but I love what I do and I’m slightly obsessive compulsive, so I feel that no one else is going to care more than I do and work as hard at it as I do. At the end of the day I love my family, my store, Chillin’ Productions, DJ’ing, and l’m grateful that I am able to do what I love.
Lastly, Wonderland SF has been open for a little over a year now. How has it changed and what have you learned?
I’ve have learned a lot! Initially I was more close-minded about the aesthetic I wanted to present. Then I realized that if I wanted the business to survive, I had to be more open-minded to what people wanted, offer more variety in the inventory, mix it up, get to know my clientele and the neighborhood, and merchandising! Merchandising is so important! It’s all about being creative. I’m really happy with what Wonderland SF has become.
Wonderland stocks apparel and accessories from belt buckles to heels and handbags -- all by local designers
In back, an art gallery features new work from local talent
Stop by Wonderland this month to view the Majesty exhibit curated by Amandalynn. 2929 24th St @ Alabama.
Photography courtesy of Rachel Kemp
More independent fashion…
Ver Unica, 437 & 526 Hayes St., San Francisco
In the window at Ver Unica: Perfectly pressed pleats, luscious leather carryalls, a delicate gold locket and cat-eye framed specs will have you reminiscing about your days spent laboring over reading, writing and arithmetic. Didn’t have those? Not to worry.
If hitting the town and not the library is more your scene, skip on over to the vintage-minded boutique’s second location, also on Hayes Street, where a pastel, floor-length gown adorned with shimmering detail reigns supreme. Stop in to either of Ver Unica’s two locations in the bustling neighborhood of Hayes Valley for a variety of reasonably priced, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces, rare treasures, obscure trinkets and jewelry from local Bay Area designers such as 1228 and Metal Smith.
