Runway Recap: Art Insitute of California’s Fashion Lineup

Runway looks in last Saturday’s Fashion Line Up from the Art Institute of California-San Francisco drew inspiration everywhere from Catholic school uniforms to safari gear to safe sex and placed a welcome spotlight on the school’s innovative, eco- conscious and, we dare say, fearless designers.

Held at the San Francisco Design Center, the annual fashion show and its young San Francisco designers did not disappoint. While the show was the fifth in a string of annual fashion shows held by local schools, the Art Institute’s production stands out for offering select student designers the opportunity to show not only one, but multiple collections. The result is a chance for participants to prove their versatility alongside their creativity.

Autumn Carlisle’s inventive knitwear opened the show, setting the bar high for her fellow students. Carlisle raised $2,500 to fund her collection, “Geometric Nightmare,” through online fundraising platform Kickstarter. The collection was a brilliant mash-up of slick geometric shapes and neutral tones contrasted with subtle pops of color; however, what made Carlisle’s line so identifiable was its bulky chain-like detailing, which was made from rubber tubing generally used in industrial machinery. For her efforts, Carlisle was awarded a $1,000 scholarship for Most Creative Construction.

Knit dress designed by Autumn Carlisle

A knit dress by Autumn Carlisle

Jacket by Autumn Carlisle

Cameron Stewart’s menswear collection shined a light on the naughty side of Catholic school. His designs, which were primarily black and white with leather detailing, looked like a high-end, deconstructed version of the classic men’s uniform. Exposed zippers that had the ability to alter a garment’s length (as seen on the sleeveless jacket below) appeared in multiple pieces, making this line as transformable as it was edgy. Cameron Stewart was awarded the $2,000 scholarship for Best Overall Effect.

Designed by Cameron Stewart

Designed by Cameron Stewart

Many of the designers showed great creativity in their fabric choices, but Chad Leal’s collection featuring unused condoms (the M.C made sure to clarify) may have taken the cake. While garments designed from extreme materials such as this tend to lack a solid design aesthetic, no such problem occurred in Leal’s collection. Leal managed to create clean-cut garments that were evenly matched by the quirky condom detailing, making his collection as professionally crafted as it was interesting. Leal was named the runner- up for Most Creative Construction.

Designed by Chad Leal

Designed by Chad Leal

Designed by Chad Leal

Once the first red and black dress from Dallas Coulter’s Victorian inspired collection floated down the runway, the audience’s approval was audible. With pristine construction and authenticity, Coulter’s collection contained pieces that could have been straight out of classics such as Sherlock Holmes or Gone With the Wind. Her second collection was much more contemporary, featuring an abundance of black feathers, lace and leather. The extreme collar and corset seen on the black mini dress below tied the looks back to her obvious love for antique silhouettes. Coulter was awarded a $1,000 scholarship for Best Construction.

Designed by Dallas Coulter

Designed by Dallas Coulter

Designed by Dallas Coulter

A mini dress from Dallas Coulter's second collection

Here are some other noteworthy looks from the show…

Brittany Hassler's collection was reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn's classically simple style.

Karen Perez's pieces were a feminine version of modern safari wear.

This fun dress from Samantha Armann's collection titled, "Minute à Paris" is our choice for a cocktail party must-have.

A tulle layered bridal gown from Kristin Murray

Rachel Poulos' show stopping little red dress

Photographs courtesy of John Agcaoili and Cortney Clift (pictures: 1, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14)

You Autie Know: Raising Funds for Fashion

At this time of year, many of us are obsessed with the countdown to Christmas, but here’s another countdown for the local and fashion-minded: San Francisco’s Autie Carlisle, who impressed us with her convertible dress during this year’s Art Institute of California fashion show, has mere days left to raise funds for her Geometric Nightmare fashion project.

Her goal: to amass $2,500 via creative project fundraising site Kickstarter by Dec. 19. Thus far, she’s raised just under half of her goal. If she hits the mark, she’ll walk with enough to create a collection of garments made of knitted rubber tubing to be presented during a four-designer fashion show in early 2011. But here’s the dramatic part. If she falls short, she gets nothing – not even the $1,000+ donors have already pledged.

As the clock ticks on her project time line, we caught up with the student designer to learn more about Geometric Nightmare and why we might want to contribute to her latest creative endeavor. Read on for her answers to our questions, as well as more dreamy illustrations from her project sketchbook.

Tell us about the idea behind your fashion show.

The Constituent Parts fashion show is put on by three other student designers and myself. The idea, though always in the back of our minds, was born out of the exhaustion of presenting our creations with other organizations. Though other shows that we’ve participated in have been great, we want to have more creative control to debut our collections in the correct setting they were made for, including more precisely the venue, music, choreography, hair and makeup, flyer, name, etc. The name of the show came from the idea that all four of us are separate individuals who are coming together in a combined effort to create something beautiful. The show will feature four completely separate collections, though all for the autumn/winter 2011 season. There will be three women’s RTW and one menswear. It will be the first show that we designers have put on independently and, therefore, is sort of a debut of ourselves as we discover ourselves as creators and share that with the world. The details are not completely in stone, but we are looking at the first week of February on a Thursday night.

What will you use the funds you raise to do?

The funds are essential to the completion of the line (though if not reached in this form, I will have to find another–but my dedication is relentless)! The collection garments will be made out of a series of knitted circles spanning about 8-10″ each, which requires about 15 feet of this rubber tubing. So each of those cost a certain amount, so literally each dollar that goes towards the project purchases the feet for each circle. So if I donator wants to know, I can tell them how many feet they have bought for the good of the collection! The money will directly be used on materials, which as I said includes the rubber tubing, as well as wool/silk creme colored yarn, black yarn and some other yardage of knits for stability behind the rubber as under-structures to the garments. Then once the line is created, it will be a beautiful piece of art that not only able to be visually rewarding to whoever looks up on it, it is three dimensional and wearable! How many pieces of art are that interactive?! This collection will be debuted at the Constituent Parts fashion show, as well as photographed and shown on my website at www.autieautie.com.

What gave you the unusual idea to try knitting with rubber tubes instead of yarn?

The idea came from an Italian company’s neoprene crocheted baskets called Neo. I recently had seen these at different gift shops in San Francisco and was fascinated and inspired. After contacting the ladies at Neo and earning their blessing, I started designing the clothing collection because no one was using this amazing fiber in garments (though it’s more avant garde than wearable I must admit). As a designer, we are always looking for new textiles and designing new textiles because how much more individual and creative is a garment if it is 100 percent from you and your creative mind? It is a very difficult material to work with, and different knitting techniques have to be applied. Let’s just say, my hands have cramps after knitting this. It’s not an easy knit-by-the-fireplace….

Beyond knitting with rubber, what else stands out about your collection?

The idea, as stated on my kickstarter site, was inspired in part by Ronan and Erwan Bourellec’s geometric “Clouds” creation. Intriguing to me was how an object can become three dimensional based on the ends that are attached to other ends. This, mixed with the idea that knits are not geometric by nature, brought me to this dark place of what it would be like to be overrun by geometry or to have total mathematical chaos in knits. I also wanted to combine the different mediums of creating this concept of a Geometric Nightmare. That’s why creating that silly video with the poem I wrote was so fun, as well as pushing the illustrations into little art pieces in themselves, discovering this muse woman pop out of them with her orange eyes and unrealistic hair. Life is comprised of so many senses, why not apply those to a fashion line? Words, pictures, textures, fabrics, colors, drawings, paintings, music, bodies, videos and photos to create a complete image.

What do you hope people get out of viewing Geometric Nightmare when it is completed?

I’ve never been asked that question- “what do you hope people get out of seeing it?” – before and yet that is such a vital and relevant question to answer before creating something (thank you for bringing that to my attention!). I suppose I just want to build this little imaginary world for people to enter, even if just for a moment. Something visually satisfying and mystyfing. Something differnt, to catch their attention and possibly inspire them about how new things are created all the time by different people and the way they see the world and choose to utilize the materials within it. I want other artists to see the lack of limitations and to be encouraged to live outside a box. In a a practical sense, I want the public and the fashion industry to see who Autie is and what she can create, building my network and brand (which is just called Autie). Who’s going to tell people about me if I don’t present myself for them to discover?

Fashion illustrations courtesy of Autie Carlisle

Runway Recap: Art Institute Fashion Show

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With 10 scenes and nearly 100 looks shown on the runway, it should come as no surprise that there was not a unifying look to Saturday’s Art Institute of California United Streets of Fashion show. Instead, the sheer diversity of items shown was part of the show’s intrigue and drama. From Rachel Richardson’s military-inspired trench, shown above, to the Autie Carlisle’s convertible dress (see below for a photo recap of its on-runway transformation), the looks ran the gamut from ultra-wearable to inventively experimental and everywhere in between.

The well-produced show was not without its own drama, as a quickly-remedied mishap early on with one of the large scale set’s curtains sent gasps up from the VIP audience (who would have been blanketed in a dark drape had it come completely down) and the presence of Project Runway Season 7 contestant Amy Sarabi added a dash of celebrity to the evening. On the runway itself, short (and occasionally scandalously so) hemlines got their fair share of attention, while other reoccurring elements included thick, exposed zippers, corseted tops and pants with either dropped crotches, a harem silhouette or something in between the two. Vampy lingerie by Tia Young, a peacock feather-adorned dance costume designed by Danielle Tilford and donned by a model on point, Cameron Stewart’s bat-wielding male models and a convertible dress that went from basic black to a whirl of orange, red and white in front of the audience added a theatrical element to the show.

Award winners from the evening were Dallas Coulter for first place in the Museum of Performance and Design’s special rock ‘n roll segment, Cameron Stewart for best construction, Leanna Liu for best creativity and design and Justyna Fiuk for best overall impact.

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Cocktail gown by Jessica Cabrera

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Runway Fun: Art Institute’s Fashion Metamorphosis

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Catch the locally-made fashions of Art Institute of California students and revel in the runway experience on Saturday night during the Fashion Metamorphosis show.

For more details and what local semi-celeb you’ll see on the runway, check out Lorraine’s post about the event on the 7×7 Glamwatch blog (because regurgitation is for the birds – at least, that’s our new motto).

A few preview pics we received from the show’s organizers (It’s v. important to note that these were taken during an informal fitting session, meaning no hair and make-up. You’ve got to hit the show to see them in all their glory!)

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More images after the jump…

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