A Quick Chat with Denise’s Pieces

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We checked in with San Francisco jewelry designer Denise Lee of Denise’s Pieces for the scoop on the silver jewelry she forms into pendants ranging from skeleton keys to musical notes and bullets. Read on for more about this local designer’s process, love for experimentation and latest work. You can also peruse more of her work in her etsy shop and find her on Facebook.

How many hours do you work on a typical day?

I try to work four hours and day, two to three times a week.

How many pieces of jewelry do you produce within those hours?

The time it takes varies with every piece.  If you were to include hours for designing, some have taken months.  Once I complete a design, to replicate it or make something similar, two to three pieces can be made in a day.

Your designs are all very unique. Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I love all different mediums of art.  I love photography, sculpture, painting, music, film, etc.  These things inspire me and directly or indirectly my pieces.

What is the process of creating each piece of jewelry like? Do you follow a similar process for each piece or do you experiment with different techniques?

The process of creating can often be frustrating for me, but I think that’s necessary.  A piece never really comes out the way I originally envision it.  There’s a bit of problem solving in each one, depending on the materials I use or the aspects of the design.  I love the challenge and it’s gratifying when a piece is complete.  I love to experiment with different techniques.  There are so many great tools and techniques to play with.

How have your designs changed over the years?

I feel that I am finally finding a theme in my pieces.  I started doing jewelry in metalsmithing.  Then, I started experimenting with beading.  I love both techniques and had fun doing so many different designs.  I am more focused on what types of pieces I want to make, incorporating the various techniques that I’ve learned.

You worked at a well-known bead shop in Palo Alto. Did that experience prepare you for launching your own jewelry line?

Very much so.  Working at the bead shop was such an incredible experience.  I got to learn and work with so many great designers.  They were all so inspiring and encouraging.

Tell us about your most recent collection.

My recent collection is still being built upon.  My pieces are very eclectic, with a vintage feel.  I think they’re fun pieces.  I am currently working on more to add to it.

– SF Indie Fashion Contributor Kristina Wang

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Punk Jock: A Chat with RosenMunns

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When we first spotted the fall 2010 collection from San Francisco-based label RosenMunns, we knew but one thing: we had to know more. For starters, the baggy, unisex gear from designers Sydney Rose and Ashley Munns is quite unlike anything we’ve seen lately. Second, we weren’t at all sure we got it (whatever getting it ever really means). After all, you can’t nicely plop clothes like these in a specific mental category, wipe your hands and be done with it. And while we won’t claim that we fully grasped the context from which these garments burst forth, we do know that we kept staring, finally closed the lookbook, but came back again later, at which point, more staring ensued. And thus, we decided to stop with the picture-peeping and check in with Rose and Munns. Read on for the artist-turned-designer duo’s thoughts on their punk-meets-jock style, San Francisco fashion and the importance of being cozy.

What is the fall line all about? We’re detecting an urban, athletic-meets-bohemian vibe. Is that at all what you were trying to convey?

We just wanted to present all the great fabrics we sourced in SF all at once and in a unique way.  We had woods and wood and camo and sport in mind, and then put it all through the RosenMunns filter, which adds psychedelic, artistic and humorous whimsy.  We ran with the idea of a refined version of what we wanted to wear everyday:  comfortable layers and textures that are interesting to observe and to wear.  High-sport or art-camp or that-place-where-the-punk’s-fist-meets-the-jocks-jaw could also describe this collection.

What new ideas or concepts were you playing with in creating the fall collection?

Conceptually, we introduce our halfpants as a poke at the social pressure to dress up.  The halfpant is half sweats and half khaki pants and always appropriate.  The camouflage and wood grain prints and textures paired with expected hunters’ orange and unexpected silver glitter illustrate the social dichotomy of fitting in and standing out – and also to hunt and be hunted.  Another inspiration is camp:  specifically, that magical time in adolescence when girls and boys are still the same but on the verge of change, when you go to summer camp and get ready for Fall and the new school year (or Fall fashion season). Concepts aside, these pieces are like art collages on their own and then together. Starting from an art background (instead of a fashion background), we always place heavy weight on the composition and sensory experience of each garment, such as the cozy tactile fabrics flipped inside outside and the patchwork of complimentary colors and dimensional fabrics.

Is this the first time you’ve designed pieces for men?

No, men have always bought our clothes, which we love.  We realized that store buyers weren’t automatically associating RosenMunns with unisex, so we decided to make it more obvious this season.  We want all of our campers to have an even and fair chance as they go out to play.

You’re based in San Francisco. Do you like being San Francisco-based designers? How does being located here influence, enhance or present challenges to the work you do?

We love San Francisco. We source our inspirations and fabrics and models and everything in San Francisco and make all of our pieces in San Francisco.  This city provides endless inspiration and a fresh perspective 0n fashion, but, unfortunately, San Francisco sort of offers limited exposure and experience (in comparison to NYC, London, Paris).  We are answering these questions in New York, where we come each season to find kindred shop owners and people.  We are here, during a truly dismal time for the economy of fashion, to spread a message of humor and optimism from RosenMunns, San Francisco. Wherever we are, we try to let our clothing do the talking, and we hope it says:  We are from San Francisco. We are crazy, beautiful, on drugs, healthy, kind, standoffish, brainy, flighty, funny, punky, clubby, tranny, hippy, trippy, and we need our coffee.

Photography by Luis Mendoza for RosenMunns

Want to see RosenMunns for yourself? Find the label at San Francisco stores Anica, M.A.C (Modern Appealing Clothing) and American Rag Cie.

More local designers

5 Tips for Shopping Smarter in 2010

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With the holidays behind us, the portion of our brains that controls the urge to shop has shifted ever-so-slightly from its focus on gifts to focus on the slew of post-holiday sales that inundate shoppers with deals each January. But while we’re all for good deals, cluttering up our closets with items we’ll only end up ignoring is never, ever on our lists.

For tips on how we can shop smarter this year, we spoke with San Francisco stylist and image consultant Rachel Fauman. A former visual merchandiser and buyer for companies such as Gap and Nordstrom, the 28-year-old Pacific Heights resident has been helping Bay Area men and women make the most of their own personal style through her company EPIC for the last four years. Along with offering image consultations and personal shopping services, Fauman guides clients through one-on-one and group shopping trips, closet clean-outs and shop-your-wardrobe sessions.

When we caught up with Fauman recently, she gave us five simple tips she often uses on shopping trips with her clients. We’ll be keeping these in mind when we hit the sales.

1. Be willing to try on new things.

You’ll never find out whether it’s right for you unless you try it on.

2. Ladies: embrace skinny jeans, even if you’ve never done it before.

Think you can’t wear them? Fauman says, think again:

“For women, there’s kind if this idea that only super skinny women can wear skinny jeans. Really, they look great on anyone. They’re comfortable, and they’re totally sexy and they look great on curves.”

3. Gentlemen: mix colors and patterns in the same outfit.

“One of my favorite things to do for men is to have them be in, say, a purple and white stripe button down and then pair that with a plaid blazer for going out at night. Don’t be afraid to mix your patterns and don’t be afraid to use color,” Fauman advises.

4. Only buy it if you love it.

Before buying, ask yourself just how much you’re in love with the item at hand.

Fauman’s buying barometer: “If you don’t want to wake up tomorrow morning and put that item on and wear it, it’s probably something to consider not purchasing.”

5. Know what you’ll wear it with.

Before charging up a storm, ponder how well your potential purchase will mesh with items you already own.

“If you can immediately think of something in your wardrobe that it goes with, then that can be a sign that it’s a piece that’s really going to work,” she says.

Looking for stores to start off your next shopping adventure? Among Fauman’s favorites:

Elizabeth Charles, Candystore Collective, Eden and Eden, Jeremy’s, Loehman’s (“it’s a great place to get an $800 women’s blazer for $300) and Bloomingdale’s for the best sales.

Want more? Check out Fauman’s latest finds and style advice on her blog.

Idol Moments: Meet Heathen Collective (+Blamo)

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We’re all for civility, but we’ve been known to wander outside those bounds when the time is right (like certain sample sales and the *very* occasional fit of road rage on Van Ness).

Another, gentler way to venture into Heathen territory? The local label bearing that name from San Francisco designers Spencer Hansen and Shayne Maratea.

The leather jackets, hats and apparel for men and women from the current collection ($8-$850) display devil-may-care cool alongside an air sleek, urban sophistication. While work on their web site is underway, the folks at Heathen were kind enough to share some images from their latest lookbook and answer a few of our most burning questions. Read on for more on this local label…

Who is Heathen?

Heathen is an independent San Francisco-based designer clothing company that offers the world men’s and women’s apparel, accessories, hats, jewelry and a series of toys under its own label, BLAMO. Partners Spencer Hansen and Shayne Maratea and an entourage of many talented folks, including Cortlan Robertson and big sister Heather Hansen, presently constitute the company.

What’s the driving idea or inspiration behind the label?

The idea for the company was birthed by Spencer Hansen in rural Idaho over a decade ago. With a continuous flow of influence from photography, painting, movement, street culture, the music industry and world travel, Heathen has established itself as an ever-evolving innovative and imaginative company. The company’s designs are visually stimulating and often recognized for their clean subtle details and functional attributes. Heathen presents a collection for a population that desires timeless fashion through inimitable non-mass-produced garments.

How did Heathen come to be? How has the labeled changed over time?

The company began with hand-made one-of-a-kind garments but was primarily recognized for its hats. After years of custom work, the desire to expand in both medium and distribution led us to explore production opportunities. We began producing clothes in 2006 and since have grown from handmaking individual pieces to producing an entire collection. We’ve been able to maintain detail and quality by self-producing and distributing all our goods and staying true to the concepts the company was founded on.

Tell us about BLAMO, the Heathen toy line.

BLAMO toys are a branch of Heathen that emphasize the humorous, other-worldly side of the company’s imagination. BLAMO started with a few toys that charmed their way into people’s lives. Spencer’s toys are sculptural collectibles made from an assortment of materials, including metal, wood, bottle caps, glass and resin that offer the world an alternative to vinyl. In October, with the help of toy collector and creator Mikie Graham, we gave the toys a home of their own and created a BLAMO web site. The BLAMO family now consists of over 10 of Spencer’s designs, from custom one-of-a-kind to limited editions to unlimited runs with new toys emerging monthly. Guest artists also contribute to BLAMO and were recently featured in a self-produced art show.

Want to have a Heathen adventure of your own? You’ll find the label locally at Five and Diamond, Shotwell and shopping events such as Indie Mart and Union Design.

More local designers

[Photography by Spencer Hansen and Aeschleah DeMartino]

Bayne of Our Existence: A Chat with Zana

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Fashion blogger, stylist and designer Zana Bayne of Garbage Dress brings her latest accessories to her native San Francisco tomorrow night for a trunk show – the 21-year-old designer’s first ever – at Shotwell in Union Square. Leather harnesses like the one seen here on Bayne will be among the edgy items up for grabs.

We caught up with Bayne for a quick chat about New York fashion, the intrigue of a good harness and her love of the color black.

So you used to hail from SF, and now you live in Brooklyn, right? What do you love about your new city, in terms of fashion? What do you miss about San Francisco fashion?

I’m completely smitten with New York. I love the energy, the business, the constant movement. I’m much more focused here. There’s better access to a wider range of designers here, so it’s always exciting to see those looks worn out on the street. At the same time, there are so many young designers here who wear their own creations and I LOVE that.

I enjoy San Francisco’s craftiness and cheap vintage. There is really nothing like shopping secondhand in California!

What kind of accessories will you be showing at Shotwell on Monday?

I will be showing leather harnesses and shoulderpieces. Expect drama, danger, mixed materials and extreme proportions!

What is it that intrigues you about the harness – what do you hope the wearer feels when he or she is donning it?

I think of the harnesses and shoulderpieces as a way to enhance a pre-owned wardrobe. I think there is something inherently sexy about wearing a leather harness as a day look, and I love adding sculptured shoulders to a bare neckline or draped dress at night! I love to see how people wear the harnesses and integrate them into their own style.

We were laughing (with you, of course) about your mention of the Real Housewives on your blog. You wrote, “We ended our night with the couch, burritos, prosecco, and the real housewives of Atlanta reunion pt2. You see, we really are human underneath all of the black drapery.” Do you find that just because you love wearing black that people often assume that you’re a dark, moody person, like off reading Satre all the time and embroiled in an existential crisis or something?

I think that the image that I project of myself in passing or online can be slightly severe. My photo face is not too smiley, although I’m constantly grinning in conversation! I think it’s important to acknowledge that I’m aware of my outward appearance, and at the same time poke fun at it. I’m a very happy person, I just love wearing black.

What projects are you working on these days?

I try to get my hands in as much as possible. I have consecutive retail jobs, my blog, harness business, collaborations, editorial styling and photography.

What really excites you in fashion right now?

Every week it’s something different. Recently, I’ve been looking into more structured silhouettes in opposition to my normal love for oversized shapes. I’m always inspired by headpieces and would love to make some.

You’ve turned 21 since your last time in SF. What joints are planning to hit up to exercise your legal status?

Oh, I don’t even know where to begin. “Death Guild” at the Glas Kat on Monday nights is always a jolly good time. You’ll probably see me at Edinburgh Castle or Hemlock Tavern. Maybe I’ll go on a proper beer crawl? Yeah, that might be nice.

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