Feeling Shifty

July 2nd, 2008

I happened by the Mission Statement earlier this week to gather a few details about the shop for Citysearch.com, and I spotted the Cotton Shift Dress by local designer Amanda Archer hanging in the racks. I’m in a summery mood these days (wonder why), and this dress just calls out for warm, breezy days, bare feet, itty bitty finger sandwiches and a rocking tan (not that I’ll ever have one, but I can always dream). If you like what you see, Amanda can whip up a custom version for you through her etsy shop.

After working for Lily Samii for several years, Amanda struck out on her own - and we’re certainly thrilled with the results. You can learn more about Amanda and the work she’s done (including a custom piece for me) in her 2007 interview with SF Indie Fashion: Indie Interview: Amanda Archer.

Indie Interview: Stitch Lounge Co-Founder Melissa A.

June 11th, 2008

This Friday, Stitch Lounge celebrates its 4th anniversary (to join in the festivities, stop by 6-8pm for drinks and happy hour fun). Since co-founders and friends Melissa A., Melissa R. and Hope M. launched the sewing lounge and independent designer boutique in Hayes Valley four years ago, Stitch Lounge has taught many a local crafty gal how to better her buttonholes, whip up a snazzy tote bag and work the serger better than Obama can work a crowd. And these days, more and more people stop by to snag refashioned and one-of-a-kind apparel from the boutique, which features designers like Hope (co-founder), Lucky Space Monkey, Chloe K, Lucid Dawn and Foompa.

Over the weekend, we checked in with Stitch Lounge co-founder Melissa A., who filled us in on this local gem’s past, present and future.

When you look back over the last four years, how has Stitch Lounge changed and evolved?

We found out that there was this desire and hunger for learning how to sew. [The lounge] didn’t start out that way. We thought it was going to be an open studio where people who already knew how to sew were going to come and do their thing. But [classes] are what they want, so that’s what we’re going to do!

What are the most popular classes?

Uber Sewing Basics is always full. And people love to make bags, so those are always popular. Recently we’ve had a lot of demand for Sewing Basics II. The students, the customers, the community are growing and advancing their skills.

How did the publication of your books Subversive Seamster and Sew Subversive changed things for the co-founders and Stitch Lounge?

It’s brought us more national recognition. We’ve never had a budget for marketing. Having the publisher behind us, and they obviously had a marketing budget for the books, that helped us get our name out, pushing it to a national level. It’s expanded our exposure, which has just been really amazing.

We were the first studio like this, but since we’ve started, these little lounges have been opening up all around the country. They call for advice, and we’re always happy to help them out.

The resurgence in craft, D.I.Y and indie fashion has been going strong over the last five years. Where do you think the movement is headed next?

I think that it’s going to spread outside of our area. If you look at the bigger trends in society, with recycling and sustainability, refashioning is a way to do that. It’s a way to not bring more material into the world.

I think what we’ll see is more clean materials, taking the materials that exist and deconstructing them, like sheets. I think we’ll be come more resourceful in our refashioning. You see a lot of people making art that way, with things like tires and keyboards.

I don’t think that we’ll ever see that in the mass market, but more on the independent level.

What was your most recent sewing project?

I’m working right now on a piece for my wedding gown. I’m not making my dress like Hope did. I’m making an obi from WWI vintage kimono silk that my sister-in-law gave me. I’m so nervous to cut it because it’s so special. I’ll definitely post pictures of it.

Have you ever considered opening another Stitch Lounge somewhere else?

You know, it’s not easy to run a business, and the three of us have full time jobs outside of here. Really, we just want to have this project. We really like this spot and this community.

How should interested designers approach Stitch Lounge?

Right now, we’re focusing on refashioned clothing. If a designer is interested, they can come in and meet with our boutique manager. We prefer if [clothing] is handmade and one-of-a-kind is nice. We do a 60-40 split [desingers get 60 percent of the sale price].

Since it’s hard to say when something is going to sell, we do a 30-day run. It’s a nice entry level kind of boutique.

What advice would you give aspiring and independent designers who want to make a career out of it?

Designers are artists, but selling your clothes is a business. You have to understand that it is a business. You need to do the business side of things. If there are rules, if you are going to have to meet, you’ve got to be on time.

The successful ones in the market are the ones who realize that this is a business.

Having samples, having things clean and folded and presentable, having business cards. It doesn’t have to be expensive or fancy, but you need to have your information. And have a phone!

Where is Stitch Lounge headed in its next four years?

We’re still going to be a sewing school, though we try to keep things fresh and always have new classes.

We’re trying to bring a little fresh breath back into our designer boutique. We’re doing a lot more with our blog. We’re posting downloadable tutorials, and we’d like to have Stitch Lounge reach other cities.

We’re really excited about the online part of Stitch Lounge. Send us comments. It’s this community space where you can come and share online. It’s the same sort of concept of sharing and learning from like-minded people who physically can’t make it to the space.

For more about Stitch Lounge, visit online or in person at 182 Gough St., 415-431-3SEW.

Getting Smashed with Smashing Darling

May 7th, 2008

Okay, okay, we didn’t really get smashed. That’s a little hard to do when you’re on opposite coasts. But I did have a smashing time interviewing Trish and Julie, founders of the fabulous indie fashion marketplace Smashing Darling. For the uninitiated, Smashing Darling is home base for a slew of indie apparel and accessories designers, who create virtual boutiques to sell their wares to indie fashion fans like yours truly. In addition to being an online fashion house, the site allows designers to post profiles and videos, hold online sample sales and get direct feedback from people who visit the site. Visit the site, and you’ll find Bay Area names like Funk Divine, Mzz Rzz, FiftySeven-ThirtyThree and The Urge to Adorn.

Read on as Smashing Darling fills us in on the feel-good nature of indie fashion, hot places to find indie fashion, the most important things to do when launching a new designer label and more.

There are so many things going on in the independent fashion world today. It can be exhausting to try to keep track of it all! Events and shows in cities around the country (and the world), magazines, blogs, new web sites are popping up all the time. How do you keep your finger on the pulse of what’s going on?

Smashing Darling: We are constantly searching for content to promote the indie fashion world. A lot of the content in our blog is fed to us by our community emailing us what they are up to or about cool indie events happening around the country. So please, if you know of an indie fashion event happening, email us. We would love to blog about it.

We’re pretty sure we could write the answer to this ourselves, but we’d like to know, from your perspective, how Smashing Darling differs from other online marketplaces, including etsy and ebay?

Smashing Darling: The biggest difference is that we are a niche market really catering to the specific needs of indie fashion designers and customers searching for fabulous indie fashion.

For new and emerging designers, which do you think is the better approach: to go full speed ahead promoting yourself and your line even if you aren’t quite sure whether you can sustain it over the long term or how you’re going to make ends meet - or to slowly release fewer items, even if that means less exposure and fewer sales, and grow organically bit by bit?

Smashing Darling: I would have to say which ever way feels most comfortable to them. When going into business, sometimes all you have is yourself, so do what best fits your life, personality, and resources. I will say, if you do decide to go full speed ahead, be smart. Make sure you know how to make ends meet. For more tips on starting out, check out Smashing Darling blogging at DIYthing.

How can the average indie fashion addict, like myself, justify spending more money to have clothing that’s one-of-a-kind, unique, handmade or otherwise indie? I’m often searching for that answer!

Smashing Darling: We believe in slow fashion. Think about the Slow Food movement. People are spending a lot more on organically grown produce and farm fresh products because they care, they want to know where and who their food is coming from, and because it positively contributes to their community. The same is true for indie fashion. Isn’t it great to know that every piece has a story and is helping a local economy? The fact that the pieces are one-of-a-kind, handmade, and/or unique is why they are special and worth every penny.

Do you think there’s any credence to the notion that becoming a mom often leads to becoming more focused on indie goods? I’ve noticed this shift among some of my peers, and I’m curious how and why this happens.

Smashing Darling: Becoming a mom definitely allows you to take a fresh look at everything in your life. That’s the nature of seeing things through a child’s eyes. There’s lots of re-evaluating your current ways of doing things. So, yes it has (for us) been a way to examine the choices we make in not only our clothing, but also our food and lifestyle. We realize that we want the best for our children, and what is best for them is also best for us. It’s a natural extension.

When you’re starting out as a designer, what are the top three things you should have in place before you launch your new business?

Smashing Darling: Assuming you know how you are producing your line (if not that is absolutely the most important), otherwise: labels to put in your garments, a venue to sell your product and the start of an email list to continually add to, so you can stay in direct contact with your customer.

Other than Smashing Darling, of course, what are some of your favorite organizations supporting independent designers, indie fashion and/or D.I.Y. culture?

Smashing Darling: GenArt, Refinery29, Fashion Replant, Nylon Magazine, Venuszine, DIY City Mag, Bust Magazine, N.E.E.T Magazine, IQONS, The Market NYC, The Edge*ny NOHO ,Catwalk Genius, Portland Fashion Week, Ultra, of course SFindiefashion…and every blogger out there talking about the world of indie fashion.

Lastly, tell us what we have to look forward to with Smashing Darling 2.0!

We are currently redesigning the site so it has a stronger indie fashion look and presence on the web. Designers will have mini blogs in their stores so customers can keep up with their favorite designers and what they are up to. We are going to offer personal shopping experiences to shoppers that will be like having their own personal stylist. There will also be more ways for a shopper to filter their shopping experience, so they find exactly what they are looking for.

Biker Bling

December 10th, 2007

Bike nerds, take note: San Francisco designer, artist and force on two wheels Jonny5 creates biker-friendly bling that’s both aesthetically pleasing and full of purpose, especially when it comes to the goat population (more on that later). Using old bike parts like these cast-off down-tube shifters for necklaces ($35) and tossed bike tires for belts ($20), Jonny5 and his one man show Zero Per Gallon strive to give self-identified bike dorks accessories that reflect their free-peddling lifestyles.

As the name Zero Per Gallon suggests, Jonny5 is none too pleased with gas guzzling vehicles and the idiots who drive them. But those of us who do get behind the wheel (as opposed to on top of two of them) can take heart in the fact that this local artist dislikes one thing more than environment-killing motorists. And that thing would be the goat population. And you will probably ask yourself why. And we will suggest reading on for our mini interview with Jonny5:

What’s your favorite bike route in San Francisco?

Fulton St, from Divisadero all the way down to Civic Center. Why? Cause you get a little warmup on the uphill to Alamo Square, then a sweet view of the city, and then you get to bomb down the hill, zipping past old Victorian SF, with that huge gold dome, all shiny, rapidly looming larger as you zip towards it on a road with almost no traffic. (It’s probably the Washingtonian in me that likes riding near fancy, European-style, publicly-funded buildings.) Twin Peaks is a close second, but probably only because I’m a sucker for hills.

What’s the worst street for bikers in San Francisco?

There are SO many… Let’s see… Geary’s not so fun, but at least it’s well-paved. Masonic is pretty scary. There’s one tiny road in GG park, called Middle Drive, that’s so bad it must have been created in some sort of let’s-see-how-poorly-we-can-pave-this-road competition. Oh, and Cesar Chavez isn’t the funnest to ride on either. I once got two flats tires, in a block, in the rain, in the dark, on Valencia St., so I sorta hold a grudge against it, but it does have that sweet bike lane.

Why do bikers need bling?

Lemme put it this way: If the idea of slumping into an over-cushy car seat, turning on the monotonous/soothing/soporific voice of NPR, and stop-and-go-ing it mere miles, only to sit there, clogged up, in a procession of 2,000-lb combustion-engine glory, while getting fatter, and lazier, and more fed-up, and getting SO used to that way of life that it seems normal is absolutely horrific to you, then bling, in some form or another, has a place in your life. Biking is like a little adventure every day. Sometimes it’s social. Sometimes it’s a style show. Sometimes it’s a soggy sufferfest. But it’s not monotonous, or soul-sucking, or detrimental to public life in cities. So, bling: it’s like a spicy red pepper to get you going on your adventure. Besides, studies show that you ride faster if you’re smiling, and bling tends to make me smile.

How does it feel to be absolutely, 100 percent goatless?

Look, there aren’t too many people in this day and age who stand up and do what they know is right at every opportunity. Goats are a huge problem - perhaps our biggest problem - and there are a precious few people standing up strong against them, so my hats go off to them. A couple of examples: There are some brave souls in Gavle, Sweden, who’ve spent the last 41 years ritually burning down a 40-foot-tall straw goat every Christmas. There’s Tracey Arnold, a 26-year-old Australian woman who got drunk at a Friday the 13th party last year, stole a goat, broke into a church, slaughtered it in a satanic ritual, took some photos of her friends and the detached goat head, and then put the head in her freezer. Unfortunately, she was caught, and fined, and forced to apologize, and forced to undergo psychiatric treatment, but hey, she was fighting a good fight. Why are these people heroes? Because lurking among us, there are people like Jennie Grant, the president of a group in Seattle called the Goat Justice League, who has said that Seattle “would be a really charming city if we were a place people could keep minifarms with chickens, goats, a vegetable garden and fruit trees.” She must be off her rocker! Goats are evil. There’s no two ways about it. They embody evil and they must be stopped. So how’s it feel to run a company that’s 100 percent goatless, guaranteed? Well, it takes hard work, but it warms the cockles of my heart.

Indie Interview: Ibi Oluwole of I.B.I Couture and I.B.I. Boutique

August 7th, 2007

It’s been a while since our last indie interview, so SF Indie Fashion was amped when Ibi Oluwole - the designer behind I.B.I. Couture - agreed to answer our questions just as she was preparing to open her latest project, the newly opened flagship I.B.I. Boutique in Santa Clara, Calif.

If you attend San Francisco Bay Area indie fashion shopping events, trunk shows or shop in indie-friendly stores like R.A.G. and Porcelynne, you’ve probably already run into Ibi and her fab jewelry and apparel designs. Not only does she participate in tons of the events throughout the year, she has been the marketing and pr arm behind events like the Boutique Bonanza and Vestiti Roupa.

But you don’t want to listen to me crow about her. You want to listen to her wax philosophic about life as a designer and the challenges of opening an indie fashion outpost. So without further ado….

Tell us a little about yourself. Your vital stats, if you will. Where do you live, how long have you been a designer, etc?

Hi Lorraine! Well, I just graduated from Santa Clara University where I majored in marketing, but I’ve worked as a designer for the past three years. I still live nearby, and I’m opening the store very close by, too.

Does I.B.I. stand for anything?

I.B.I. is actually just my name, but I thought I’d make it look more like an acronym than a first name. No real reason, I was just playing with a bunch of fonts in Word one day, and it worked.

How long have you been planning the I.B.I Boutique?

The boutique was always the goal for my line, then Ibi Couture. It was supposed to serve as sort of the flagship store where my line could be found, but it evolved quite a bit to accommodate a wider range of products, and include other local designer lines.

What independent labels will be available at the boutique?

Some of the independent designers include: Mison, Sindy Collection, Donna Lou Clothing, Squink Industries and Porcelynne. There are many more to name, and they make really beautiful goods.

How did you decide what to carry?

Whatever I loved. Some of the designers are friends I made over the years from RAG, and the other designers were also recruited from there.

What was the biggest challenge in opening your own store?

The amount of physical labor that has been involved. I usually have to be coerced (read suckered) into going to the gym. So, handling a hack-saw and a hammer drill was not something I expected to handle very well.

What’s your favorite part of the store?

I am obsessed with all of the jewelry displays. There is jewelry everywhere and all of it is beautifully displayed using everything from large coral branches to antique picture frames.

What advice would you give others who want to start boutiques in Santa Clara?

I would recommend that anyone opening a boutique should choose location very carefully, but not expect the location to market itself. South Bay shoppers tend to be mall shoppers, so it’s got to be a unique idea and/or offer a unique selection.

Tell me about your involvement with fashion shopping events like Vestiti Roupa and the Boutique Bonanza. What role did you play in those events?

I was the lead marketing/pr person for Boutique Bonanza, which was a May event by the producer of Vestiti Roupa trunk shows. It was a fantastic experience, and I got a great chance to talk with some very savvy boutique owners. In fact, the above advice was something that was mentioned by one of the ladies of Chrissy Bee (who did a great interview, by the way).

As a designer, how effective were shopping events in building your business?

Incredibly effective! The store wouldn’t have happened without Boutique Bonanza for one. Also, all of the working capital for the store came from the plethora of trunk shows that I’ve done since the beginning of the year. I think they’re also a great way to meet other designers - I plan to do more recruiting at such events.

What’s your favorite thing about the Bay Area’s independent design landscape?

I like that it is unpretentious and original. There is a lot of talent up here, and I wish more of them would be recognized for it. SF bay area designers make things that are very wearable without being predictable.

What would you like to see change?

The amount of attention people pay to what’s in their own backyards. It would be great if more locals shopped their own local design businesses, just as they would LA or NY designers.

Give us your thoughts on the independent design scene specific to Santa Clara.

(There isn’t really one here, I went up to SF for all of it)

Where do you shop for clothing?

My friends stores: RAG, Backspace, Hayes Street, Shopbop.com, and Ebay!

What item in your closet have you owned the longest?

A black Louis Vuitton turtleneck. I don’t wear it anymore, but can’t bring myself to part with it.

Pets? Kids? Crazy hobbies?

I wish! No!! Does being crazy in general count?

What’s on the horizon for I.B.I. Couture in 2007 and 2008?

I.B.I Couture will become BYIBI in 2008. The boutique will take up most of my time in 2007, but I’d love to go to London Fashion Week to see the Spring shows. Still trying to convince myself it could be a business investment.

Is there anything else you’d like to tell us about yourself or your line?

Honestly, I’d love be able to say a BIG thank you to everyone who has supported me and my line! I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to do this in the amount of time I have, and I am so thankful for all of the tremendous support!

If you’d like to be featured on SF Indie Fashion, contact us using the link on the right. We’d love to hear from you.

Indie Interview - Amanda Archer

May 31st, 2007

San Francisco’s Amanda Archer is one of the few local designers I’ve asked to design custom garments. I first met her at a Chillin’ Productions event several years ago. A friend and I stumbled upon her racks at the show and ended up asking her to create a bridesmaid dress for my friend to wear at my wedding. Several months later, she created a tweed coat for me by essentially reproducing a vintage coat I bought in a Las Vegas thrift store. It’s one of my favorite pieces in my closet.

On Saturday, Amanda will be back at Chillin’ for the ninth anniversary event (check out SF Indie Fashion’s indie interview with Chillin’ Productions founder and president Irene Hernandez-Feiks from earlier this week to learn more about this stellar event).

I particularly like Amanda’s designs because they incorporate femininity, practicality and a hint of vintage flare into wearable, current-looking garments like the silk tops shown above.

She’ll be showing these tops, as well as selections from her signature collections, at the show this weekend at significantly reduced prices. Make sure to check her out.

Below, Amanda was kind enough to answer a few of our most pressing questions:

Vital stats (name, label/company, city, years as a designer):

Amanda Archer is based out of San Francisco. I’ve been designing my signature collection for over two years.

What’s the most challenging aspect of pursuing a fashion career in the Bay Area?

It’s slim pickings job wise. There is just so much more opportunities in NY or LA.

I know you spend a great deal of your free time designing and sewing custom garments and that the process is very time-consuming. As an artist, what drives you? What compels you to keep designing?

I ask myself that question a lot. It’s not something I can exactly pinpoint. I just have this inner drive and love of what I do: picking out fabric, finding inspiration and designing, patternmaking, sewing and creating special garments for people. It’s so rewarding to see someone bring to life my sketch, going from 2D to 3D. Garments are meant to be worn, so I strive to create pieces that are wearable and creative.

I always think it’s interesting to find out how important fashion is to designers on a day-to-day basis. Are you a big fashion consumer? Or do you prefer to concentrate on creating? Any thoughts?

Great question, it changes daily. I love to be fashionable and am very conscience of what’s out there. I buy clothing from all different sources (SF is a fabulous shopping destination!). I especially love to buy from other local designers and I go to as many trunk shows as possible. At the same time, if I concentrate too much on myself, I lose some creative energy. Some days I need to dress plainly and focus on my work and designing for other people.

Your fashion icons:

I love history, so I would have to say Charles Worth is very inspirational to me. When I was very young I remember reading about his life and was fascinated by that time period. Also Elsa Schiaparelli, I love the humor she brought to fashion. I’m also a fan of Salvador Dali and the surrealist movement, which Schiaparelli was involved in.

Day job?

I’m a designer for Lily Samii Collection as well as the production manager and head patternmaker.

What advice would you give an aspiring Bay Area fashion designer?

Don’t do it for the money. Get in this industry because you have no other choice but to love what you do.

Tell us about your latest or most recent collection, Something Blue:

This collection which will debut this August and September is geared for Spring 2008. It is inspired by the changes in the sky: clouds, fog, clear blue skies, midnight stars…. The collection is made up of cotton spring/summer coats, dresses, lots of separates and has a touch of bridal because I’m getting married soon.

Which of your collections will be represented at the upcoming Chillin’ event?

I will be showing select samples from ‘Wine and Roses’ and ‘Premier’ to represent my custom work. I will also be selling some fun, easy to wear silk tops that are perfect for an evening out on the town this summer!

How many shows do you participate in each year?

2-3, for now. My signature collection is part time because I work in the industry full time.

How important are runway shows, trunk shows, shopping fairs, etc. to your business?

Very important. It’s really one of the only ways I can represent my own collection and meet customers face to face.

What sewing machine(s) do you use?

I use an industrial Juki single needle and an industrial overlock.

What are some of your favorite sources for fabrics and notions?

I love attending the LA and SF fabric shows. They have fabric venders from all over the world at these shows.

If you were a fabric, what would you be?

What a fun question! In fall, I would be a wool, grey and dusty rose jacquard. Winter, I would be a soft grey, cashmere felt. Spring, iridescent blue silk chiffon. Summer, an embroidered organic cotton with a vintage 1920’s cotton lace trim.

If you could sell or display your designs anywhere in the world, what location would you choose?

Fred Segal, LA

What else is on the horizon for you in 2007?

I will be debuting ‘Something Blue’ at a fashion show and trunk sale September 14, in Santa Cruz. www.santacruzhasfashion.com

Indie Interview: Chillin’ Productions’ Irene Hernandez-Feiks

May 29th, 2007

We’re back from Memorial Day weekend maxin’ and relaxin’ with a serious dose of Chillin’. Chillin’ Productions are one of SF Indie Fashion’s favorite San Francisco indie fashion happenings. In fact, without Chillin’ Productions, we are quite certain that SF Indie Fashion would not exist - the idea for this site was born several years ago after attending a Chillin’ event and realizing how many fabulous apparel and accessories designers create in the Bay Area.

The event, which celebrates its 9th anniversary this coming Saturday at mezzanine, is the brainchild of San Francisco’s Irene Hernandez-Feiks. She was kind enough to answer some of our most pressing questions just in time for the show.

Designers, check out her great advice for how to maximize your potential at upcoming indie fashion happenings, samples sales, etc.

And indie fashion consumers out there, get thee to the event this weekend. Seriously. It rocks.

Vital stats:

Name: Irene Hernandez-Feiks

Company: Chillin’ Productions

Neighborhood: Castro

Time with Chillin’: 9 years

Why did you start Chillin’ Productions nine years ago?

I am a fashion designer and wanted to create a platform for myself and other designers and artists. I knew too many talented people that did not know how to create exposure for themselves. It’s hard if you do not have connections in the industry. Chillin’ has always been free for the designers and we do not take commissions from art sales. It was truly created for the art and fashion community. To make money for them, exposure and connections.

What was your involvement in the art and fashion worlds before you started Chillin’? What led up to the creation of the Chillin’ events?

Not much, just an incredible passion for art and fashion. Both of my parents are artists and as I mentioned before I was a designer.

How has the event changed over the last eight years?

It started with 5 designers every week on Tuesday at 111 Minna (which I love and I am so grateful for believing in me). Today I try to do them every 4 months and I feature 60 fashion designers, 80 artists, 60 filmmakers and 6 DJs. And if I had more space, I would have more designers and artists.

Do you have a day job?

Kind of. I am trying to open the new venue, and planning Chillin takes over 2 months of work. Sometimes I get hired to produce shows for different companies. I do not make my money from Chillin’. Chillin ‘ is my baby, my passion (I have met so many amazing people through the years. I know Chillin’ would not exist without so many talented people and I am so grateful.)

Tell us about Chillin’ Productions. How big is the company? Are you a one-woman show?

Just me! I am obsessive compulsive. I have to do everything or I go crazy. I need to have control or I get worried things are not getting done. Houston my husband helps me out a lot.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to follow in your footsteps and produce multimedia shows and events in the Bay Area?

Being honest is the most important thing! You have to be passionate about it. Do not think it is going to be a great success immediately, it takes time. I cannot tell you how many times I had crappy shows at the beginning. Develop a thick skin, not everyone will love you!!! Do not get discouraged. Research your resources. Get involved with the fashion and art community. Try to go to all the art and fashion events in your community. Always look for new talent. Be open-minded (other people might love what you do not like). Always try to learn, never think you do things perfectly, there is always room for improvement. Promote like a crazy person. I post stuff everywhere and I flyer the whole Bay Area like a crazy person still after nine years. Try to help other businesses. I love creating opportunity for smaller businesses that do stuff for the community such as Stitch lounge, RAG, Bawift, etc. Try to get press, it’s hard at the beginning but eventually you will get some. Do things in a way that makes you feel good when you go to bed. Never take advantage of people. Be nice but be smart, do not let people take advantage of you. Even if you are offering a free show to the designers, always have a contract and let them know what you expect from them. Be professional and always separate friendship from business (a lot of these designers have become my friends, but when it comes to Chillin’ I treat everyone the same). Never forget the people that helped you. Welcome competition. I could go on and on…. Anyone with a questions, feel free to contact me anytime.

What’s the most challenging part of putting a Chillin’ event together?

Keeping track of all the artists. The show features over 200 artists. It’s hard when you have to make sure you get all their contracts, get all their bios for the website on time. Making sure they give me the dimensions of artwork on time. Making sure filmmakers get me their shorts on time so we can put all of them into one DVD. Making sure the 200 artists get their flyers and help promote. Making sure everyone knows set up rules and show up in time. Hanging 80 artists that morning and taking art down that night. Making sure no work gets damaged and keeping everyone happy, which unfortunately never happens. Setting up 60 designers. Communicating with over 200 artists is not easy, but I love it and love them!!!

Is there anything that’s going to be different about the June event?

Well, it’s a special celebration because it is our anniversary show. Lots of new designers and artists (you will be blown away, I am so proud). There will be a sound system for the films, so that is exiting. We always try to see what did not go so good with the prior show so we can improve. I know it can get too packed in there so we will try to have more open space. We will try to make sure no one has to stand in line. I am featuring a new DJ (all my DJ’ shave been with me since the beginning ), but overall, it’s the same thing.

What advice do you have for up-and-coming Bay Area designers who want to make the most out of showing their designs at an event like Chillin’?

Keep doing shows. Even if you do not sell a lot, you can always learn what you may need to do differently at the next show. You never know who you will meet and what exposure you may get. It’s not all about selling. You will do great in some shows and not so great in others, so do not get discouraged. Learn your market so you know which shows work for you better. A lot of these situations can be stressful so do not take things personally. Always have something available with your contact info. Try to have a website or something where people can see your work. I am always looking for new designers and it is good to have a reference where I can go back and look at your work. Have something that makes you different, so that is why people buy from you. Start getting an email list so you can tell your customers what shows you are doing and they can come and buy your stuff. Try always to come up with new fresh ideas so people get excited to see what is next. Having a little sale section always attracts people. Be nice, no one wants to buy from someone with an attitude.

Last spring, you announced plans to open a permanent Chillin’ venue? Is this still in the works?

YES!!!!!! I am so stressed out!!!! I have 2 words for you: Fu….ing PERMITS!!!!!! I just hope soon!!!!

What else is on the horizon for you and Chillin’ Productions in 2007?

Hopefully the space! I want to take it to a different level. We are looking at a space that will have a permanent boutique that will feature 200 designers (this time I will have local and global designers), an art gallery, a 50 people sit down movie theater, a restaurant and a bar. Also this will be my space, so architecturally will look the way I want to (very modern, very NY). Also the space will have things for the community such as art classes for children, etc. I just hope it happens soon, it’s taking way to long!!!

Close

• Social Web
• E-mail

• del.icio.us
• Digg
• Furl
• Netscape
• Yahoo! My Web
• StumbleUpon
• Google Bookmarks
• Technorati
• BlinkList
• Newsvine
• ma.gnolia
• reddit
• Windows Live
• Tailrank

E-mail It

• To Address:
• Your Name:
• Your Address:

Share This. Posted in Indie Fashion, Indie fashion happenings, Interviews, Local designers.

(1 Comment)

Indie Interview: Deborah Genet, Chrissy Bee

March 30th, 2007

Just in time for le weekend, we’ve got a dose of indie reading material that you don’t want to miss. Miss Deborah Genet was kind enough to bestow her words of wisdom upon us, and, for that, we are grateful. How else would be know that Kiera Knightly was recently boozing it up in San Fran? Or that 80’s shapes kinda suck (okay, most of us already know that)? But we (yes, the royal we) digress.

Genet, who owns Haight shop Chrissy Bee with her longtime pal Anya Zebroski, gives us the lowdown on the store and how went from a space with dungeon-like qualities to the super cute venue it is today. Read on for an update on current designers and, bien sur, the trunk show this weekend.

Vital Stats

Name: Deborah Genet

Company: Chrissy Bee Boutique & Gallery, 622 Shrader St, SF. (415) 221-3020

Opened: August 28, 2006

Why is the store named Chrissy Bee?

Christine Genet, a.k.a. “Chrissy” is part of the name sake of Chrissy Bee. Chrissy was my stepmother and one of the most amazing people I was blessed to know. Chrissy fought a courageous battle with lung cancer which eventually took her life in the spring of 2006. To honor the memory of Chrissy and carry it on into the future, we (myself and co-owner Anya Zebroski) decided to combine the names of Brooklyn a.k.a. Bee (Anya’s daughter) and Christine, therefore merging the past with the present and future into the name Chrissy Bee.

You’re at a cocktail party, and you start talking to someone who’s never been to your store. What do you tell them?

I’d tell them about all the designers we carry and how we strive to find labels that aren’t already represented in the Bay Area. I’d mention all the local jewelry designers we work with and how a lot of the pieces we help co-design so you won’t find someone else rocking the same piece as you. And then I’d invite them to come to one of our monthly art openings, because they are always fun and who doesn’t appreciate a free cocktail?

What led up to you and co-owner Anya’s opening the store? How did you get where you are today?

Anya and I have been friends for a long time. Anya has an extensive background in retail management, working in the industry for 10+ years managing local San Francisco boutiques, but my background is in art history. A little more then a year ago, we started talking about going into business together, opening a small boutique and gallery merging both of our interests. We were both ready to channel our efforts into something for ourselves, and we were kind of in a “now or never” mindstate. It seemed more like a dream than a reality until we came across the 622 Schrader Street location. Two days after seeing the space, we signed the lease on June 1st 2006, marking the beginning of Chrissy Bee.

What part of the store are you most proud of?

This might sound kind of crazy, but really it’s our back storage area (that our customers don’t see). When we got the space, it was a dirty, dark dungeon back there. We spent a lot of time gutting and cleaning it out and turned it into a cozy hangout for us to do office work in or for Brooklyn to hangout and play downstairs when she’s at the shop. She even has her own bed back there and a TV to watch her favorite movies on.

Tell us about the designers and labels we can find at Chrissy Bee. Any locals?

Like I mentioned before, we strive to present different and local labels here at the shop. For instance we work with local designer Josh Podol and carry both his women’s and men’s lines. Gytha Mander is another local favorite for amazing menswear. And of course we carry Orange Button designed by local Wendy Wagner. We just got back from market and found some insane European labels like Lundgren & Windinge that we are excited to be carrying in the shop. But we also carry lines like Saint Grace and LA Made that we consider “staples.” Our denim lines Freedom of Choice and Denim of Virtue are amazing. I can find a pair that will fit just about any body type, and we also offer free pant hemming with any denim purchase (added bonus).

If I walked into the store tomorrow, slapped $50 down on the counter and said, I need to spend this, like, right now, what item would you suggest?

I’d probably show you the Erica Weiner jewelry and chances are you’d walk away with her bee necklace that sells for only $33 bucks. We blow them out of here…they are insanely cute, and you can’t beat the price.

Your fashion icons:

I hate this question…everyone always says the same things: Audrey, Jackie, Kate…

I credit my aunt Dale Goodman for buying me my first pair of designer jeans and introducing me to the world of contemporary designers. Dale always looks chic, and put together in a Miami sensibility way.

What’s the craziest thing you’ve witnessed in the Haight since opening?

I ran into Keira Knightly at the liquor store the other day. I invited her to our next opening.

What’s the most challenging aspect of running your own boutique?

Having to know and do a bit of everything, from marketing, advertising, book-keeping, customer service, chasing down vendors, sourcing new lines etc… I mean it feels crazy sometimes. Like the amount of work is never ending and always changing, but luckily I have Anya to help, too.

What advice would you give others who want to open their own boutiques?

Pick a location where you feel confident about understanding the market needs there. Oh yea, and find a good accountant!

If you were an article of clothing, what would you be?

Hmmm, probably a boldly-patterned silk shirt-dress piece.

The trend you like the most right now:

Billowy shirt dresses

The trend you hate:

80’s inspired prints and cuts. Get over it, it was bad then and it’s still bad now.

Really important question. Tupac or Biggie?

My loyalties to the West Coast make me say Tupac. But I still love Biggie’s Ready to Die album. I used to play that track “Juicy” over and over again in my dorm room. But Tupac’s “California Love” is like a personal anthem.

What item of clothing have you owned the longest?

I still have my old camp t-shirt from sleep away camp like a bazillion years ago. I still think it’s cool and rock it every once in a while. it’s like one of those ringer style tees with contrast stitching.

Tell us about your upcoming trunk show:

I think it’s going to be really great. We are having local designer Wendy Wagner of Orange Button & Accessory designer Cara Lyndon showing their new spring collections here at the Bee on Sunday, April 1st. We really love these girls and have worked with them since the beginning. They have a way of taking something basic and making it desirable and special. Plus our store events are usually a blast because our customers know how to have fun and enjoy a good party. Once we get the champagne flowing, it always turns into a special event.

What else is on the horizon for you and your store in 2007?

We are just going to keep moving forward and try to consistently outdo ourselves. We want to throw even better events, find more unique designers and strive to establish our presence in the San Francisco fashion world. We are working on our first Chrissy Bee label products and hope to have them in the shop soon.

Indie Interview: Elena Calabrese

March 7th, 2007

Elena Calabrese was kind enough to undergo an Indie Interview with SF Indie Fashion. I first saw Calabrese’s designs at RAG in Hayes Valley, but have since run into them at various shopping events in the city. I own two of her necklaces, and I love the way they hover between earthy and sophisticated. The overall result is a very Bay Area look, but one that could easily be at home on couture runways.

Designers, check out her advice on San Francisco vs. New York. Shoppers, click through to her site via the image or the link below to view more of her Spring/Summer 2007 collection, which uses cruelty-free bull horn.

Vital Stats:

Company: Elena Calabrese Jewelry Design

Location: Sausalito

How long: 10 years

Finish the following sentence: When someone wears my accessories, I feel…

… happy that they’re happy.

Your fashion icons:

Hmmm, funny, I don’t pay much attention to fashion people.

Day job?

Accessory Designer (currently unemployed)

As an artist, what drives you? What compels you to keep designing?

As I see things that inspire me, whether it’s a color, an interior/architecture, a cool hotel, something in nature or a place, it’s a way to create an expression of that inspiration. I love to look for new materials that convey a certain look that I’m into at that moment, or maybe it’s a color. What’s cool is that often, simultaneously, creative people are thinking the same things and that’s when trends are born. I love that it’s constantly changing.

What’s the most challenging aspect of your job?

Right now, working solo, I’m way too social for that.

You’ve spent a good deal of time living in New York. What are the advantages and disadvantages of pursuing design in the Bay Area compared to a design hub like New York?

The problem with the Bay Area is that your choices are limited, as in companies to work for. My advice would be to make decisions in your early part of your career based on what you could learn from each job. Get a variety of experience, work for big companies and small because you really develop a different skill base in each experience. It’s important while you are relatively unattached to a mortgage or family to move around. It’s the best way to get promoted into bigger positions.
NYC has great opportunity, but by no means is it mandatory for success. It should however be experienced in one way or another, even for just a summer internship.

How many shows do you participate in each year?

About 10

How important are trunk shows, shopping fairs, etc. to your business?

Since my business is a part time venture, it’s very important. I prefer to sell at shows because they’re fun and I like working with the customer, and I can keep prices down. I only sell to 3 stores right now, RAG in SF and 2 stores in Brooklyn.

If you were a metal, what would you be?

Platinum, with a patina

If you could sell or display your jewelry anywhere in the world, what location would you choose?

Movies and couture runway shows.

Tell us about your latest or most recent collection.

It’s made from buffalo horn rings that are a transparent amber or grey color, very cool.
The collection of necklaces and earrings are combined with rare, faceted grey and green chrysophase, brushed vermeii gold beads, and gold-filled chain. It’s earthy but sexy.
Can see it at www.elenacalabrese.com under “whats new” Spring/Summer 07.

What’s on the horizon for you in 2007?

Want to design home furnishings & interiors, new job and maybe more school!

Indie Interview: Blakely Bass, owner R.A.G.

March 2nd, 2007

If you’re into indie fashion in San Francisco, then you’ve undoubtedly heard of R.A.G., a Hayes Valley boutique that rents rack space to an ever-changing crew of local designers. This month, R.A.G. is closed for renovations and a thorough “greening.” In the meantime, you can learn more about the store’s owner Blakely Bass and what to expect when the store reopens at the end of March.

In the midst of her renovation process, Bass took a break to talk to SF Indie Fashion. Check it out. If you’d like to be interviewed by SF Indie Fashion, get in touch.

First, tell me about the remodel you’re doing on the store. What can customers and designers expect to see when you’re done with the space?

The remodel will have taken a month from start to finish (late Feb to late March) but it will be well worth it because it involves almost the entire greening of RAG. I had originally thought about becoming an SF Green (certified) Business in November 2006 and had filled out the application which required that my business comply with all applicable regulations, conserve energy, water and other resources and become an environmentally responsible business within our community. This meant for example, using recycled copy paper, reusable mugs, nontoxic cleaners and a percentage of compact/low voltage fluorescent lighting, among other suggestions. I started doing more online research until I discovered reams of tissue paper for bagging clothing that was 100 percent recycled and non-bleached and referring to green business listings (on www.sfenvironment.com) until I had come across local green building resource centers such as The Green Fusion Design Center in San Anselmo. I knew that my store was in great need of painting and repairs to aging wood throughout the store (the building having been built between the years of 1895-1906) and a whole new fresh new look so I decided to take my chances now and close during the rainy season to do the remodel. To start off, I began by purchasing low and no VOC(volatile organic compound) paints to paint the entire store (more expensive but less odor and better for the environment) and FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) redwood to trim out the entire facade of the store and inside above and around the front door. In the next 2 weeks I am also working with the SF Green Business program and PG&E’s new green team who are coming into RAG to give lighting suggestions and rebates for better energy efficient lighting. Upon reopening RAG, I will be using my newly purchased green cleaning solutions and am preparing to properly dispose of old paints and chemicals according to SF Department of the Environment’s suggestions.

I believe too that my customer base will appreciate the “greening” of RAG and will feel more at home and cozy in the space once it has a new color palette of light yellowish-greens, light blues and natural wood grains.

Let’s backtrack a bit. I’ve read about how you launched R.A.G. several years ago, but I’m curious about your inspiration. Have you always been interested clothing? Retail? Design? What was it that gave you that ah-ha, I want to do this moment?

Honestly, I was never a clothes horse growing up and became interested a year before I opened RAG (2001-2002) in attending sample sales/trunk shows in SF. I had several friends and their friends who I visited at different sales and after about a year formulated the RAG store concept. I had asked 15-20 designers around town what they thought about having a store that better showcased their designs as local designers by renting their separate racks in a gallery-like setting and displaying biographies in store and on a store website. They were all thrilled with this idea of a “Residents Apparel Gallery” since most of the local boutiques didn’t just carry local designers and you couldn’t tell which lines were local designers and which were from LA or Toronto in most stores. I really liked

this part of the artistic community too and I wanted to help these new friends out. It was during that year of 2002 that I went home to the Florida countryside to ask my mother to sit down with me for a couple intense weeks of “sewing boot camp.” After all, she had made beautiful dresses for herself in the 60’s and 70’s and dresses for me as a child. I

came out with a better understanding of following patterns and the lingo used.

Later on, in owning RAG I began to realize that it wasn’t just helping our starving artists here in our community but it was also really doing a community service. By using only local designers who design and produce in the Bay Area I am helping employ more people locally in the manufacturing process and helping reduce the amount of fossil fuels being used in shipping- not much different then consumers buying from local food growers. I could also be sure that child and slave labor were not being used. In summer 2005, I participated in Global Exchange’s Sweat Free Coalition and spoke in front of the board of supervisors at City Hall in support of factory workers getting paid a living wage. Needless to say, I was thrilled that my formative years in high school and college green clubs weren’t the only environmental causes I had worked on so far.

Do most of the designers you showcase at R.A.G. come to you? Or do you actively seek new designers out? If so, where do you look for them?

When I first started RAG I really hit the burgeoning sample sale circuit which is usually held at clubs and bars and had posted ads on Craigslist.org but as time went on designers heard about RAG from word-of-mouth and I have now circulated in 350 new and old designers since 2002. I plan on attending more sample sales in 2007 and also upon

Re-opening RAG I will be carrying fewer designers each month at RAG to better showcase fewer people. In the last year I have also began selling my own designs at RAG and have participated in 3 or 4 sample sales around town.

What changes, if any, have you seen in the San Francisco independent design scene in recent years?

I have definitely noticed that there are more sample sale events and more stores opening that are catering to local designers since I have opened. I have also watched 5 designers in RAG go on to open their own stores for their line in the Bay Area.

What’s your favorite thing about San Francisco’s independent design landscape?

I really love the diversity of tastes and designs. It is really fantastic that you can dress like you want here; you can follow the trends or create your own ones.

What would you like to see change?

I would like to see more fabric being shipped here and even produced here. This would help to bring back more manufacturing and the garment industry. But due to high rents in the Bay Area that may not happen again.

Give us your thoughts on Hayes Valley as a neighborhood. It’s changed a lot in the last few years. What do you think about the changes?

I think that the changes to Hayes Valley are mostly good. We now have a park and no ugly freeway off ramp. There is a little less crime but it definitely still exists and won’t go away completely. There are more restaurants and unique concept design stores; however with the beautification comes higher rents and that worries me.

Where do you shop for clothing?

I shop from RAG and occasionally buy non-local designers from my friends who own stores locally to keep them in business too!

What item in your closet have you owned the longest?

Embarrassingly it would have to be some of my old bras from high school!

What advice would you give others who want to start boutiques in San Francisco?

I would tell them to find a niche in the clothing market that hasn’t been done yet and open your store in or near a shopping district. Also, I would now tell them to try and go green!

Is there anything else you’d like to tell us?

“Remember To Think Global, Buy Local!”

About RAG

In 2002, Residents Apparel Gallery became one of the nation’s first co-op style boutiques, where local clothing and accessory designers rent their own rack or shelf monthly to test out new designs on the public. Designers here are encouraged to display promotional materials including signage and biographies to develop merchandising and branding for their products. RAG has become both an incubator as well as host to a supportive design community that shares advice and resources.

The RAG co-op offers a wide array of items including jewelry, clothing, handbags and wallets, hats, and kids items, housing designs by 60+ designers monthly. There is no specific taste instead RAG chooses to showcase a wide range of styles, from seams-out one-of-a kind clothing pieces to very tailored ready-to-wear lines. We believe in the need to represent the diverse and unique styles here in our own local community.

Since 2002, RAG has rented space to over 300 emerging and independent local designers!

The RAG co-op was conceived of by Blakely Bass, an environmentalist at heart and sewing enthusiast.

For more info please contact b(at)ragsf(dot)com

R.A.G.

Residents Apparel Gallery

541 Octavia St.

San Francisco, CA 94102

415-621-7718