San Francisco Independent Fashion
Our very-visual, (almost) chatter-free snap judgment of the day: channel your inner vixen with the intricately constructed Lulu ribbon corset, $130, from San Francisco-based Honey Cooler Handmade. Designer Stephanie Bodnar handcrafts her corsets using Victorian and Edwardian era inspired designs and materials such as woven brocade ribbon, satin, lace and silver busk closures.
Photography courtesy of Honey Cooler Handmade
A partial view of the factory
Garment manufacturing is quietly thriving in San Francisco, thanks to a plethora of local designers producing handmade clothing here in small batches and independent companies like SJ Manufacturing. “SJ” stands for Seymour Jaron, the president of SJ Manufacturing, whose 55+ years of experience in the garment industry have granted him living legend status in his field. We recently went inside the SJ headquarters, located in a South of Market warehouse full of local start-ups and sewing machines, to find out how clothes are made in San Francisco.
When most people think of America’s fashion epicenters, either New York City or Los Angeles comes to mind, but San Francisco is currently experiencing a mini-manufacturing renaissance that’s worth noticing. In many ways, the rise in local manufacturing makes sense: San Francisco has both design talent and a long history in the apparel industry forged by household names such as Levi’s, Dockers and Gap.
Cutting the fabric according to the paper pattern
It’s more expensive to produce clothing in S.F., especially in large batches, largely because the minimum wage is higher here than in New York or Los Angeles. It’s even cheaper to manufacture a clothing line in China (though usually impractical for small companies unless the quantities are in the thousands), but more and more designers are deciding to produce locally, for reasons ranging from quality control to civic pride. So the thinking goes: when you build a relationship with the people producing your garments and actually see them being made, the process becomes more personal.
For many start-up designers needing small batches, the San Francisco garment manufacturing scene is just the right fit. In recent years, SJ has worked with numerous emerging Bay Area apparel labels, including Chi Wear, Hip-T, Alphyn Industries and Janine Marie Handbags & Accessories.
Hong Ning, SJ's Production Manager, working on an iPhone pocket in an Alphyn Industries garment
SJ specializes in sample making and small to medium runs, which range from as few 50 pieces and up to 1,000 pieces in a production. Hong Ning, SJ’s Production Manager, uses her over 40 years of experience to create the sample, as sample making requires a higher level of expertise to resolve any problems within the garment and find the best method for mass manufacturing.
Designers who are ready to manufacture come to SJ with sample garments and paper patterns (if they have them). Once the pattern is set, SJ will make a duplicate sample for approval.
With the approved sample, the pattern is then graded, or scaled into various sizes, and becomes ready for manufacturing.
After the pattern has been graded, a process that involves software, and printed onto paper in different sizes, fabric is stacked on a cutting table and cut into the necessary shapes and sizes. At this point, some pieces of the unfinished garment may be sent out for embroidery or printing before assembly.
The assembly process requires various machines specific to each task at hand– there is a machine for bar tacking, a machine for sewing buttonholes, a machine for lock stitches, just to name a few. The finishing touch? The labels. In order for a garment to be produced and sold legally in the United States, the designer must provide a label describing the fabric composition and care instructions.
Next stop: a store near you and – many designers hope – ultimately your closet.
Photography courtesy of Alexandra Naughton
More San Francisco fashion…
In preparation for this weekend’s Alameda Point Vintage Fashion Faire, we picked up some serious vintage shopping know-how from vintage expert and event co-founder, Sandra Michaan. Read on for her tips on buying vintage, choosing the right era and mixing vintage and modern pieces.
Get ready for a chic Halloween with this two-day shopping fair at The O Club, where timeless looks from the prim Victorian-era to the day-glo 1980s will be on display. On sale starting with a “first stab” opening party (and costume contest) on Friday, October 21st and ending with an all-day event on Saturday, this extravaganza features 50 booths showcasing a wide array of clothing for women and men, couture, jewelry, accessories, textiles, fine linens and more.
What is a good way for someone to get introduced to buying vintage?
A good way for someone new to get introduced to buying vintage is to attend a vintage fashion faire or expo event. There are dozens of professional dealers vending all in one place. Many have been in the business for years and own shops. They are experts and can find the right styles for you to try and are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to eras, inventory and sizing. It’s like having a mall of personal vintage shoppers who hand pick and select merchandise that is right for you. Also, if you don’t have a stylist, you can enlist a stylish friend who already wears vintage to go shopping with you. I always help my friends find pieces for their collections and show them new ways to mix vintage.
Any ideas for beginners who aren’t sure how to wear it?
Look at magazines and browse the internet to see how other stylish folks are wearing vintage. You can be inspired by style blogs, since many bloggers are savvy to mixing vintage with modern pieces. Also many celebrities are wearing vintage and they have stylists who are vintage collectors so they style them for appearances and photo shoots. I recommend starting with accessories like vintage scarves, hats, belts and jewelry and working your way into more adventurous looks as you get more confident with wearing vintage.
Can anyone wear any era of vintage or are certain eras more appropriate for different body types?
I believe you can wear any era of vintage and look fantastic, but certain eras have cuts that are more flattering to different body types. It’s all about finding the style that feels right for you.
How can one identify different eras of vintage? What distinguishes one era from another?
If you’re new at collecting vintage there are books to guide you. Also, at vintage shows, dealers can assist you with their knowledge. Watch TV and films from different eras. They depict very specific time periods and the costumers get it right. They win awards for their expertise. I’ve studied fashion history and it’s fascinating to go to fashion exhibits at museums. What distinguishes one era from another is fabric, length, fit, etc. and it will be easy to determine once you get the hang of it.
Is it ever acceptable to wear vintage from head to toe? What about mix-matching eras?
It is acceptable to wear vintage head to toe if you are re-enacting an era. Some people are vintage lifestyle enthusiasts and even wear authentic undergarments. They belong to vintage societies and are passionate collectors. If you do choose to wear vintage in that way you will look as though you stepped off a movie set and you will get noticed. However, a more modern approach is to mix modern and vintage. Also, it’s perfectly fine to mix vintage eras. I like to mix Victorian lace and 60s styles with modern pieces. It’s how you mix it that matters. Try to find eras that echo each other in tone. It’s an advanced styling technique but it looks fresh and unique when you see it.
How do you feel about recycled fashion (modifying a vintage piece into an updated or different look)?
Recycled fashion is an art form. I’ve seen some pieces that have been destroyed by time restored into a fabulous new garment that looks new and modern by some of my dealers at my shows. I have myself done this. Sometimes, an old garment just doesn’t work in it’s original form and needs a fresh update. Often, moths destroy sleeves, or silk disintegrates. Embellishments can be added to revive a tired gown. I love to recycle fashion that way and reinvent something. Even broken jewelry can be made new again and many dealers at my shows have achieved this beautifully.
Why are fashionistas drawn to vintage?
One of a kind looks are always a strong way to make a fashion statement. Stylish types love to go for fashion that they know others won’t have. No one wants to walk into a room and see another person wearing the same outfit! Not to mention that vintage garments are often couture quality for much lower prices.
Who are your favorite vintage designers?
Halston, Yves St. Laurent, Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar De La Renta, Pucci, Lilli Ann.
Where do you look for inspiration?
Flea markets, books, magazines, film, museums, art, nature, travel, music, the internet!
What are your tips for buying vintage: what should one look for, and what not to buy?
When buying vintage always look for good condition. If you buy something that needs restoration, take that cost factor into consideration. Don’t pass on vintage items if they aren’t current designer names. Sometimes, lesser known labels can become collectible in the years to come. As for size, it’s always a good idea to go up in size since you can always get larger items altered to fit. Don’t rely on modern sizing since old labels have different sizing standards. Sizes vary from decade to decade and from manufacturer to manufacturers since they are from the past. Try every item on or get measurements to ensure a proper fit. Lastly, always buy what you love. Vintage is a good investment and is always in style.
More San Francisco vintage…
Black and white dots in an all-over graphic print
Nail foils are gaining traction as a quick, not to mention cheap, way to get a wildly patterned mani at home. Selections can be small at local drugstores, meaning you might end up with the same print as the chick next to you on Muni. To the rescue: limited edition non-metallic nail foil sets from Mariposa Allure in designs that range from graphic dots to Halloween-themed ghosts and ghouls.
Launched in September, the San Mateo-based company offers European-made foil sets ($9.99 for hands, $12.99 for toes) in over 30 designs. Yes, there’s animal print. And python, as well as girlie flowers and sporty soccer balls. Each comes with 20 foils sized for different nail beds, a cuticle stick and a file to shape them into place. A less expensive, just-for-teens line made to fit smaller nails is in the works.
For those new to the nail foil process, it’s pretty simple, but there are a few key tips you can use during the application process, which takes about 20 minutes from start to finish.
Mariposa Allure founder Veronica Maldonado gave us a few tips:
“Make sure the nail is completely clean of old nail polish. Then apply a clear coat. I find this helps a lot to ‘glue’ the foils together with the nail bed. Apply the product as close as possible to cuticle without touching skin. File off the excess and apply another coat of clear, and you are done,” she advises.
To view designs, visit the online shop.
Sets for your toes let you match hands and feet.
This Halloween set featuring skulls and stars - like all sets - comes with 20 different foils in different sizes. You choose the foil that best fits each finger and file into shape.
More San Francisco beauty…
DEMA, 1038 Valencia St, San Francisco
In the heart of the Mission on Valencia Street between 21st and 22nd is a boutique called DEMA, which for nearly fourteen years has been keeping stylish Bay Area ladies gussied-up in modern women’s clothing with a vintage vibe.
Dema Grim, owner and namesake, designs and crafts her own clothing which she sells in the shop and can oftentimes be found in her workshop in the back of DEMA, where she creates patterns and cuts fabric. In addition to showcasing her own creations, Dema seeks out other designers with a unique voice that fit well with the atmosphere of the shop. Among them are clothing lines Vkoo, Cardigan, Subtle Luxury and Red 23.
Walking inside DEMA is like stepping out of a time machine into a very hip, punky-mod alternate dimension, with vintage posters, kitschy-cool furniture and racks and racks of colorful and boldly-patterned skirts, dresses, blouses and accessories. Plastic BearBricks stand on a shelf near the dressing room area dressed with Sex Pistols cover art (“They can be customized with whatever, Dema tells us, “I’ve seen Fendi ones…”) while neat stacks of folded sweaters lay atop a crescent-shaped table.
Tops by Cardigan in a plethora of patterns.
Avocado tiled floor and mod touches create a retro-feeling shopping experience.
Dema, busy in her workshop.
Sam + Lavi blouse, DEMA Lesley Skirt, and Tokyo Bay cross-body bag, photo borrowed from the DEMA web site.
We got a chance to interview Dema via email while she was getting some R&R up in the Russian River Valley. Read on for her thoughts about getting started in the biz, where she gets her inspirations and what looks she’s loving for fall.
Are you originally from the Bay Area? Do you believe your environment influences your style?
I was raised in Seattle, where I started my clothing line; moved to NYC in 1989 and enjoyed some success- selling to lots of small influential boutiques around the country as well as Barneys; moved to SF in 1994 with a lot of these shops, including Barneys, owing me a LOT of money and decided to open my own shop and stop doing wholesale in 1997. The one exception to this is M.A.C., with whom I’ve been collaborating for almost 20 years!
I believe that environment absolutely influences my style. In New York, I made much dressier, more tailored things. Suits, lots of black,etc. Being in San Francisco, and the Mission district in particular, has relaxed my style and made it more colorful. I really think that in the last 5 or 6 years I have found my voice, as it were, in regards to mixing color and pattern.
How did you get started in the fashion industry?
I did not go to a fashion school, rather I cobbled an education together by working in theater doing costumes, at alterations shops where I learned about fit and from a woman who taught pattern making in her living room. I did take a sewing class and a basic draping class at Seattle City College. I just bought the textbooks and taught myself!
Where do you look for inspiration?
I’m very inspired by the 60s and rock and roll. I was quite the mod punk in my teen years! The 60s was a time of new freedoms from restriction for young women. The mini skirts and racing around on scooters etc! But also, on a practical level, the fabrics I find really push me in a particular direction. I think my line reflects a modern interpretation of vintage classics done in unexpected patterns or textures.
Who is your typical client? If you could dress any person, celebrity or not, living or dead, who would it be?
My typical client is me! 35-45, wanting to still look cool and relevant but also age appropriate.
I have a real soft spot for Jean Seberg. She was so perfectly gamine. My perfect blend of tomboy and girly. I live in skinny jeans and Keds and had just the same short haircut for a lot of my life and have always admired the girls who race around town on their scooters. I may stray into other eras, but I always come back to this sort of girl in my head.
What is your favorite trend for Fall?
Having said that, my favorite Fall trend is turning out to be the midi-skirt. I’ve done a great below the knee 4-gored skirt with a sort of 40′s flip to it. Very flattering to lots of figures and a very fresh length! This is turning out to be a very popular skirt for Fall. I’ve also done a very classic late 50′s dress with a little cap sleeve, pleated neckline and fitted skirt that looks great on almost everyone and works well in many different fabrics from daytime wools to silky evening prints.
Where do you like to shop in the city?
I don’t shop for clothes too much around town. I have a hard time buying anything I could make! But shoes and sweaters are definitely allowed: Gimme Shoes, Rabat, Bulo, Shoe Biz, etc.
DEMA has been in the Mission for nearly 14 years — what kind of changes have you noticed? Has the clientele and store changed in that time?
Boy have I seen a lot of changes in the neighborhood. I opened in 1997, and there was very little on Valencia besides used clothing and furniture shops. Then came the DotCom years, and I was very successful…When the bubble burst it was quite an eye-opener. Then things stabilized for a bit, and then this current recession started three years ago! I’ve seen so many shops come and go. I worked very hard to keep American Apparel off of Valencia even though we had so many empty storefronts. I just knew it would change the “indie” attitude of the neighborhood. And now almost every storefront is filled with interesting retail concept shops or great restaurants. For a while there were tons of indie clothing design places as well, although we lost a few to the recession. I would love for this neighborhood to be known as the place to come for small production clothing shops.
What are your goals for the future of DEMA?
I imagine DEMA to remain a fairly small enterprise. I’m pretty happy with my little design incubator and with the collaborations with MAC (Modern Appealing Clothing). I’m certainly busy enough! I would love to get something going besides my blog so my fans across the country could buy DEMA online.
If you didn’t have to work, where would you be right now?
When I’m not working, you’ll find me either poking around Europe or in my garden wrangling the roses or walking my three dogs around Bernal Heights!
Sex Pistols BearBricks give an edgy sense of fun.
Fabrics waiting to be turned into DEMA's next creations
Faux leather handbags by co-lab on display.
Kitschy-cool is the vibe of DEMA.
Cute decorations inside Dema's workshop
DEMA is celebrating its 14th year on Valencia, so don’t forget to stop in and say “Happy Birthday!”
Photography courtesy of Alexandra Naughton
More indie-friendly San Francisco shops…
